arrow spine for newbie

Justin Forbes · March 06, 2013, 01:40:00 PM

I'm sorry guys. I know this questions been beat to death. I'm brand new to traditional shooting. Bow: 45#@28 Kodiak Magnum. BH-8". Nock set 3/8" high. I'm 100% sure, but i think my draw is about 30". 32" arrows yeild about 2" past front of shelf. I ordered GT traditional 5575 32" 125gr. points. 5" left helical feathers. I dont feel like I'm getting the proper flight. After reading this forum, I think I might be overspine. Question is should I keep tweaking using these arrows, sell em and start with 3555?

Prairie Drifter · March 06, 2013, 01:56:00 PM

You are drawing about 50-52 lbs at your DL, so I would add weight to the front of your arrows, either heavier tips or inserts

Prairie Drifter · March 06, 2013, 02:00:00 PM

You are drawing about 50-52 lbs at your DL, so I would add weight to the front of your arrows, either heavier tips or inserts

Justin Forbes · March 06, 2013, 02:07:00 PM

Thanks. So you dont feel Im necessarily overspined in your opinion? I've some heavy GT inserts located.

Justin Forbes · March 06, 2013, 02:09:00 PM

....I'd really prefer staying with 125gr field points as it'd allow for a wider broadhead selection when the time comes.

moebow · March 06, 2013, 02:10:00 PM

How much of a "newby" are you? IF you are really just getting started, I suggest you will have a couple problems. First, a 52 inch bow drawn to 30" is arguably getting into stacking and could make the bow a little unstable causing bad arrow flight. Second, and probably MOST important, is that your shooting form will have a MUCH greater effect on arrow flight than spine will.

I suggest you just shoot whatever arrows you currently have for a good while. Once you are more consistent with your form (style) and are shooting groups, you will be better able to determine if equipment or form is causing the arrow flight problem.

Save yourself time, expense and frustration trying to tune now. Just shoot!

Arne

damascusdave · March 06, 2013, 02:10:00 PM

I have been shooting for about 4 years and am still not all that concerned about arrow flight...I spend my time shooting and working on form and clean releases...without those tweaking is useless

monterey · March 06, 2013, 02:11:00 PM

The heavier point will surely help. Get some 135, 145, 160 and 190 points and work your way up.

Not related, but that is a long way to draw a Kodiak Magnum! :eek:

damascusdave · March 06, 2013, 02:16:00 PM

When Arne and I agree listen to both of us...if we disagree listen to Arne

Justin Forbes · March 06, 2013, 02:23:00 PM

I'm brand new to this. I've always shot compound with great success. Laid off a few years and decided to piddle with friends recurve. Immediately addicted. I do understand form and its importance. I actually shoot fairly consistant out to 15-17 yds. I feel good about this as I'm only a week into this. On the other hand, I also know I need my equipment to be right. Just as with any other endeavor. Common sense tells me that I've prolly about maxed out the draw potential of the bow, but I'd like to believe it's doable. Like I said, I'm not real versed in traditional shooting so I value everyones opinion. I'm not against the idea of trying a 60" bow, but I like the magnum if its not necessary. Thanks again guys. All advice will is greatly appreciated.

moebow · March 06, 2013, 02:45:00 PM

Justin, I'll add this then shut up. One of the first things you DO DO with a compound is tune it! THAT is standard. You HAVE a peep and sight to give you alignment, you have a release device to REDUCE release errors and at full draw, you are holding about 10 pounds. A rough comparison is that tuning is about 60% of the shot and form about 40%.

With traditional, you do not have the peep and sight to give you alignment, you have a finger release learn and finally you have the 3 or 4 or 5 times the holding weight to learn to deal with. With traditional form is 90% of the shot and tuning is 10%. Plus with your short bow you will be dealing with finger pinch which will also greatly complicate your release. Even a 64 inch bow will be a challenge for you for awhile The Kodiak magnum and super magnum are specialty bows and frankly MOST folks can't shoot them at all. You are used to short ATA compound bows but that doesn't transfer very well to trad bows.

What you THINK you know from the compound will not be necessarily true with a recurve.

Do what you will but above all have fun.

Arne

Justin Forbes · March 06, 2013, 03:30:00 PM

I do understand these variables exist, and I make a conscience effort to pay close attention to them while practicing. I just want to make sure my equipment is right. I cant help but feel that properly matched equipment will yield better results than improperly matched equipment. But I do value your advice, and I will continue to shoot and constantly evaluate and reevulate the human error in my shooting.

Orion · March 06, 2013, 06:11:00 PM

No doubt that properly matched equipment is important. However, one big match is the bow to the shooter, and as Arne is saying, a short bow with a long draw length is not a good match. Doable, yes. A good match, no. Have fun and learn as you go.

Shawn Leonard · March 06, 2013, 06:20:00 PM

With the Kodiak Mag you are drawing more than 50-52#s those K-Mags stack bad after 28"s I would say at least 53#s maybe 54#s. Still think you are a tad stiff though, just up point weight to 150-175 and see how they fly. That is a long draw for that bow and a long arrow, if you could cut it to 31"s and shoot 175 grain points I think you will be darn close. Shawn