sealing wood arrows

[old bucky]

The minwax polycrylic, can you use the dip tube and rubber gasket,or must it be wiped on.

Thanks Sam

[wooddamon1]

The Minwax wipe-on that I use is polyurethane, so I'm not sure about the polycrylic stuff. You can get Minwax stains that also seal the wood before adding a finish that just wipe on, though...

Post some pics of your finished arrows for us to enjoy when you're done!    

[Tree Killer]

I just keep it warm (room temp), use the dip tube and let it drip. Fine steel wool between the first and second coat. Then a third coat over the crest makes for a great finish.

[old bucky]

Thanks for the info.

Sam

[lpcjon2]

Whatever product you use dont short cut the drying time.

[moththerlode]

I sure like the wipe on poly .. been thinking of a dip tube also to make it faster and easier. Is there anything better straight out of the can ?

[luvnlongbow]

Don't know about better, however Pro-Fin is great straight from the can. From can to dip tube no issues.

[Green]

Another fan of Profin.  However I thin mine about 10-15% w/paint thinner.  Very hard, durable finish if you let it cure correctly.  

I thought I was getting target burn on some arrows about a month ago....turned out the target material was just setting on top of the finish like the scratch off stuff on a lottery ticket.  Came right off with a fingernail.

[Dave Bowers]

I use sanding sealer first; usually bout 8 coats. Then 5-6 coats of poly

[joe skipp]

After staining the lower portion of my shafts, I lightly sand, then hand rub in a good coat of Minwax Polyurethane. After drying, lightly sand between coats and add 4 more coats of Minwax, each a little thicker. Sanding in between coats. I find this gives me the best seal and totally waterproofs them.

Top 8" I dip in Bohning Super Coat after I thin it out. Dip twice, lightly sand then apply my first coat of white paint. Second coat is Hot Pink, let dry thoroughly. Crest and fletch....

[Orion]

Old Bucky.  I've use polycrylic as a dip.  Did not use a gasket, however. Worked OK.  My guess is it would work OK with a gasket as well.  Probably need  a few more coats though.

[old bucky]

Thanks everyone for the info.

Sam

[Rob DiStefano]

i like things as simple as possible, and ditto's for making woodies.  right onto the raw wood, 3 to 4 wipes of right-outta-the-can minwax gloss polyu, with 0000 steel wooling 'tween each coat.  wool the last coat to kill the gloss shine if need be.

k.i.s.s. is good!   :D

[rustyspike]

As said. Let them dry. Longer the better. Most people rush this process.

I have used a couple of differnet sealers.

Raptors I like the best. (sponcer here)

http://www.raptorarchery.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=146_123&products_id=285

Rich K.

[Craig]

I have been making them over 20 years and Use Zip Guard. Only need 2 coates. 1 over the stain then steel wool. crest and 1 over the crest. If you want them satin steel wool again. That is it. I can dip a dozen at a time and no bubbles. No smell. I have arrows that are 20 years old and still in perfect shape.

[Bill Leeming]

Do you use Duco over the Minwax, Pro-Fin and Zip Guard?

[smoke1953]

Duco on the Minwax, haven't used the others.

[Craig]

I use Fletch tite plantinum with the Zip Guard

[LookMomNoSights]

Polyshades!

[luvnlongbow]

I use tape to fletch. However for nocks and a drop on each end of the fletch I use Duco. No issues as of yet.