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sealing wood arrows

Started by old bucky, April 28, 2012, 11:45:00 AM

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old bucky

The minwax polycrylic, can you use the dip tube and rubber gasket,or must it be wiped on.

Thanks Sam

wooddamon1

The Minwax wipe-on that I use is polyurethane, so I'm not sure about the polycrylic stuff. You can get Minwax stains that also seal the wood before adding a finish that just wipe on, though...

Post some pics of your finished arrows for us to enjoy when you're done!    :campfire:
"The history of the bow and arrow is the history of mankind..."-Fred Bear

Tree Killer

I just keep it warm (room temp), use the dip tube and let it drip. Fine steel wool between the first and second coat. Then a third coat over the crest makes for a great finish.
"stickbows, putting the arch back in archery"

old bucky


lpcjon2

Whatever product you use dont short cut the drying time.
Some people live an entire lifetime and wonder if they have ever made a
difference in the world, but the Marines don't have that problem.
—President Ronald Reagan

moththerlode

I sure like the wipe on poly .. been thinking of a dip tube also to make it faster and easier. Is there anything better straight out of the can ?
God,Country and Family ..Semper Fi

Valley Springs Ca.

luvnlongbow

Don't know about better, however Pro-Fin is great straight from the can. From can to dip tube no issues.

Green

Another fan of Profin.  However I thin mine about 10-15% w/paint thinner.  Very hard, durable finish if you let it cure correctly.  

I thought I was getting target burn on some arrows about a month ago....turned out the target material was just setting on top of the finish like the scratch off stuff on a lottery ticket.  Came right off with a fingernail.
ASL's, Selfbows, and Wood Arra's
Just because you are passionate about something, doesn't mean you don't suck at it.

Dave Bowers

I use sanding sealer first; usually bout 8 coats. Then 5-6 coats of poly

joe skipp

After staining the lower portion of my shafts, I lightly sand, then hand rub in a good coat of Minwax Polyurethane. After drying, lightly sand between coats and add 4 more coats of Minwax, each a little thicker. Sanding in between coats. I find this gives me the best seal and totally waterproofs them.

Top 8" I dip in Bohning Super Coat after I thin it out. Dip twice, lightly sand then apply my first coat of white paint. Second coat is Hot Pink, let dry thoroughly. Crest and fletch....
"Neal...is this heaven?" "No Piute but we are dam close". Top of the Mtn in Medicine Bow Nat Forest.

Orion

Old Bucky.  I've use polycrylic as a dip.  Did not use a gasket, however. Worked OK.  My guess is it would work OK with a gasket as well.  Probably need  a few more coats though.

old bucky

Thanks everyone for the info.

Sam

Rob DiStefano

i like things as simple as possible, and ditto's for making woodies.  right onto the raw wood, 3 to 4 wipes of right-outta-the-can minwax gloss polyu, with 0000 steel wooling 'tween each coat.  wool the last coat to kill the gloss shine if need be.

k.i.s.s. is good!   :D
IAM ~ The only government I trust is my .45-70 & my Ol' Brown Bess

rustyspike

As said. Let them dry. Longer the better. Most people rush this process.

I have used a couple of differnet sealers.

Raptors I like the best. (sponcer here)

http://www.raptorarchery.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=146_123&products_id=285

Rich K.

Craig

I have been making them over 20 years and Use Zip Guard. Only need 2 coates. 1 over the stain then steel wool. crest and 1 over the crest. If you want them satin steel wool again. That is it. I can dip a dozen at a time and no bubbles. No smell. I have arrows that are 20 years old and still in perfect shape.

Schafer Silvertip

Bill Leeming

Do you use Duco over the Minwax, Pro-Fin and Zip Guard?

smoke1953

Duco on the Minwax, haven't used the others.

Craig

I use Fletch tite plantinum with the Zip Guard
Schafer Silvertip

LookMomNoSights


luvnlongbow

I use tape to fletch. However for nocks and a drop on each end of the fletch I use Duco. No issues as of yet.


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