takedown vs one peice

kill shot · March 08, 2010, 09:55:00 PM

I was wondering what the benefits one bow would have over the other? I mean would a one peice bow be easier to tiller? Would a takedown be faster to build? Would one shoot better than the other if all the specs were the same? just wondering.

Longbow338 · March 08, 2010, 10:00:00 PM

Neither will shoot better than the other. A take down you can get limbs of different weight down the road. They weight of the take down is a little more and easier to pack on trips.

jbuck9 · March 08, 2010, 10:15:00 PM

Just what longbow338 said.

S Biles · March 08, 2010, 10:40:00 PM

I have made both types of bows, for me they take about the same amount of time to build. The tillering is no different, and the biggest difference( if yourntalking about a 3 pc take down) would be the extra weight in the riser.

kill shot · March 10, 2010, 08:44:00 PM

Thanks. Never knew, always wondered.

Ragnarok Forge · March 11, 2010, 12:58:00 AM

Two pieces weight more as do three pieces. The biggest advantages to multi piece bows is a little more weight, stability due to weight and lower hand shock. Plus portability in the car and plane on trips.

LKH · March 11, 2010, 01:27:00 AM

The two piece takedown longbows take a lot longer. Basically, you build the bow, then cut it in half and make the joint.

For backpacking you can't beat the 2 pc takedown w/composite sleeve. Very light.

SpencerL · May 13, 2010, 10:14:00 PM

Who Makes a bow with a "Composite" Sleeve? I'd love to see it.

PZee · May 14, 2010, 06:08:00 AM

Does anyone know where I can find a build along for a bowbolt takedown system?

Thanks

Pete

BigJim · May 14, 2010, 06:46:00 AM

PZee- I would be very carefull with the bow bolt. Those that install them all the time know the in's and out's and even with the composite sleeve you need to take precautions.
Standard all wood risers can easily fail with either one of the systems above. In order to have a long lasting two piece, there must be some glass in the riser or at least a considerable amount of phenolic. I choose to use glass because it doesn't flex like the wood or phenolic and makes for a rock solid bow.
I have 5-10 thousand shots out of my 86# bow with nary an issue, yet I have shot a new 62# bow built by a reputable bowyer with a bow bolt in an all wood riser only to have it ruin my evening in 5 shots.
I'm not saying the bow bolt is bad, just be careful.
bigjim

JRY309 · May 14, 2010, 08:13:00 AM

T/D bows are nice for traveling,but for me I like one piece bows.Just a personal prference.

Night Wing · May 14, 2010, 08:52:00 AM

Both of my recurves are take downs. If I buy another recurve, it's going to be a one piece. Just because I want one.

ranger42 · May 14, 2010, 09:07:00 AM

They may shoot different for you, depends on what you like as far as mass weight of the bow. I like to keep things simple, so i shoot one piece bows.

coaster500 · May 14, 2010, 09:53:00 AM

If you're going to fly somewhere 2 or 3pc is the way to go for me.....less luggage !!

Craig Warren · May 14, 2010, 12:49:00 PM

Pzee,

Big Jim gave you some good advice. If you are the kind of person that is meticulous in the things you do, you will probably be OK with the Bow Bolt installation. If you are not, have someone that is do it for you or use a different system. The instructions are on my website, www.warrenarchery.com , but you really need to follow them to the T, especially the warnings about being surgically clean and using very fresh epoxy in the process. Also, as Big Jim suggests, on heavier bows, you need to reiforce the handle area with glass or micarta. Please call me if you want to discuss. The number is on the website.
Craig

amar911 · May 14, 2010, 02:29:00 PM

I have a number of two piece bows with the Bow Bolt system. It is outstanding when properly installed in a bow that is designed to handle the stresses. I could probably make the same statement about just about every other engineered design where substantial stresses are applied. Craig is being overly modest -- his Bow Bolt is a fantastic product. Big Jim's socket design appears to be very strong as he builds it, but any such connection must be well designed and executed using materials that can maintain their structural integrity under the forces that will be applied to them during anticipated uses. I have shot Shrews and Holm-Made bows of various weights up to my near maximum of 70 pounds that had Bow Bolts installed and have experienced zero problems after many, many arrows were shot. Gregg Coffey and Chad Holm have a great deal of experience with Bow Bolts and the proper design and construction of bows using that connection. Gregg only had one failure, and that was when he used a solid piece of Gaboon Ebony in the riser. The Bow Bolt did not fail, but the wood did. He now insists on incorporating substantial phenolic or other reinforcing material into any riser where a Bow Bolt is used. A large percentage of Shrew bows have been built with Bow Bolts with none other that one having any problems with the connection. I don't know of any problems that Chad has ever had with a bow that has incorporated a Bow Bolt, but I do not think Chad has ever used a solid wood riser with a Bow Bolt.

I have heard great things about the strength of Big Jim's socket connection, and I know that Black Widow offers a similar connection. The design of the socket may limit the variation available for the grips somewhat when compared to the Bow Bolt, but the grips on Jim's bows and the two piece Black Widows appear to be very nice. I would like to shoot one of Jim's bows, because if his bows shoot half as good as they look, they would be one of the better bows on the market today.

Either the Bow Bolt or the socket would be my choice for a two piece bow connection, and as much as I travel to hunt, a takedown bow is a necessity. I have one piece bows, but I only use them when I am shooting locally. The one piece and two piece bows feel and shoot the same, with the two piece being just a few ounces heavier.

Allan

PZee · May 14, 2010, 04:42:00 PM

Hey BIGJIM,

I'm really new to bow building, compared to you all on this site. I've only built a few bamboo floorboard bows. I'm stepping up to Bamboo Backed Bulletwood R/D now. I would like to make a few of these takedown bows to take back to South Africa and was really taken by your system! I was going to laminate the riser to add strength, are you suggeting this might not be strong enough? If so is it a must to have glass in the riser? Sorry to ask the questions, but thats how we learn!!!!

Thanks, Pete

PZee · May 14, 2010, 05:01:00 PM

Hi Craig,

Thanks a million for the advice. This is not something I would take up lightly and just do. The reason I like BIGJIM's method, is it seems simpler to construct than installing the bowbolt, also the resorces are easier to obtain. I really like both methods though, and maybe when I am better at bow building and building R/D glass bows, I'll have you send me one here to the UK! I've saved your site under favourites for future use....

Thanks, Pete

bear1336 · May 14, 2010, 06:36:00 PM

I prefer the Bear T/D bow because you change limbs so easily to different weight or lenghts.

BigJim · May 14, 2010, 10:43:00 PM

How about a drive to a 3d event with a couple of buddies. Or out of state for a hunt. those 60 + inch bows tend to take up some room. Ah what the heck, throw them in the back of the truck. It won't bounce around back there and i'm shure it won't rain.
As far as mass weight, yes I could understand it in a Recurve, but you can't tell the diference in most longbows.
bigjim