Hot melt for full metal jackets (axis)

Bill Carlsen · December 23, 2009, 05:03:00 PM

I just got some FMJ shafts from the classifieds. A while back there was a thread on using hot melt for the inserts in these types of shafts. I made some mental notes but lost my notes. Can any of you tell me how you install your inserts into the Axis type shafts using hot melt? Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas to all.

thefirehuntr · December 23, 2009, 05:10:00 PM

Bill, I use hot melt on all my carbon inserts. Not sure of the shafts you speak of but on goldtips i screw a field point on the insert heat the point in a pair of pliers w propane torch on real low til the insert will melt the hot stick. They hold well on targets orcasionally one will come out if stumping. If they do just heat em up and reglue.

Warden609 · December 23, 2009, 05:25:00 PM

They make a little insert tool that they include with the shafts when purchased new. This helps to set the distance from the end of the shaft to the insert. The procedure shouldn't change to much using the insert tool. Apply your adhesive and use the tool to install the insert. You could use a field point to do the same thing but it would be better with the tool because the inserts are hidden in the shaft. I really like epoxy on these shafts. I hope that helps some.

Bill Carlsen · December 23, 2009, 05:48:00 PM

Rich: I have used epoxy for years, but I know that Bob Morrison and others have had good luck with hot melt. Bob explained it to me once and all I can remember is that he used a 8X32 brass screw and a nut to gauge the distance and then my brain goes blank. The problem is how do you keep the excess hot melt out of the shaft where the shank of the point goes? I have had the occaision where I would have liked to remove inserts but know it can only be done with hot melt. I just can't remember the system.

m'gobo · December 23, 2009, 05:50:00 PM

I have never used hot melt on any carbon shaft. I use epoxy or goat tuff glue.

Dave McDaniel · December 23, 2009, 05:55:00 PM

Goat Tuff for inserts and fletching! Although it is expensive it works really well.

Warden609 · December 23, 2009, 06:13:00 PM

Bill, I would apply the hot melt on the back of the insert and as you push it into the shaft it should stay out of the shank. The inserts fit so tight it shouldn't be a problem. I will follow the thread to see if you find the system.

Gordon martiniuk · December 23, 2009, 06:56:00 PM

Best with epoxy for those easton arrows you should use the tool they supply with arrows and the glue you get if you need a insert tool any archery shop will give you one for free and show you how to use it Very good shafts FMJ

bowfiend · December 23, 2009, 08:40:00 PM

Hey Bill,

First off, I think you'll love those arrows when they're finished. I tried a bunch of different carbons, including the MFX classics, and the FMJ's are great.

If you want to use the hotmelt, the insert tool that comes with the slim diameter arrows has a ring that - for lack of better terminology- squeegees out excess gluee as you retract it. It should work to elminate excess hot melt build up as it does with epoxy.

That being said, I always use the 100-grain brass inserts and some type of epoxy. I use goat tuff for fletching, but my experieince is that it dries way too fast to use on the hidden inserts. I don't use hot melt, so I don't know if you'll run into those problems with it.

Good luck.

(FWW, I've been in Montana for 15 years but I'm from Keene. I've been thinking pretty hard about getting back that way when I get a chance for a moose hunt.)

Steve O · December 24, 2009, 09:30:00 AM

Bill,

JC told me about using JB Weld a while back. You might want to reconsider the hot melt and go that route. I am amazed at how bulletproof it is compared to the epoxy that comes with the shafts.

CDR · December 24, 2009, 10:17:00 AM

I also am a big fan of the goat tuff, works great!

griz#1 · December 24, 2009, 10:45:00 AM

bill, do you need a tool & stone.you can have mine.

WESTBROOK · December 24, 2009, 01:47:00 PM

I use hot melt on my MFX. Just screw a field point into the insert, heat it up and push it in. As said above, I put the glue at the back of the insert and it gets spread thin as you put in the insert. Works for me.

Eric

Ragnarok Forge · December 24, 2009, 02:54:00 PM

Bill,

Use epoxy or another tough glue. Cut them from the rear end of the shaft if you need to shorten them. I find that I much prefer to know the inserts won't pull out and might have to refletch once I get them tuned right. Fletching is fairly cheap and easy to do at home.

I love the FMJ shafts that I am using to hunt with this year.

Bill Carlsen · December 24, 2009, 03:48:00 PM

I am going to try Westbrook's recommendation. I have used these shafts for several years with the epoxy. However, at times I need to get the inserts out which is impossible or buy new shafts. I want to try the hot melt on a few to see if it works. Don't know why I never thought of using the field point...should do it. Thanx to all.

Bill Carlsen · December 24, 2009, 05:26:00 PM

I am going to try Westbrook's recommendation. I have used these shafts for several years with the epoxy. However, at times I need to get the inserts out which is impossible or buy new shafts. I want to try the hot melt on a few to see if it works. Don't know why I never thought of using the field point...should do it. Thanx to all.

boznarras · December 25, 2009, 10:44:00 AM

Are yall using the hot melt glue from a hardware store, the white stuff, or are you using something special?

Bill Carlsen · December 25, 2009, 11:06:00 AM

Ferr-L-Titte

WESTBROOK · December 25, 2009, 01:17:00 PM

Ferr-L-Tite is good, I've also had real good luck with the Kimsha that 3R & KK sells. The kimsha is a little softer thus less brittle in the cold weather.

Eric

doowop · December 25, 2009, 02:10:00 PM

I use Gorilia glue. Have not lost a insert since using it.