Soaking shafts in Watco

[Bear]

I would like to try the Watco soak technique on a couple dozen cedars. I'm thinking it would create a nearly moisture-impervious finish for a backcountry elk hunt. Not to mention the added weight advantage. I will probably even go over it with a coat of gasket laquer for a more non-porous outer shell. I have done GL over Watco rub before with good results.

Three questions about the soak tube:

1. Does it affect spine?

2. Does it cause shafts to warp or loose thier straightness?

3. How long do you soak them per amount of grain weight gained?

Experienced replies would be greatly appreciated.

[Orion]

The answer to your first two questions is no.  I usually soak mine several days to about a week.  They gain most of the weight within the first day or so, but do add 10-20 grains after that.  Premium ACME shafts, which are no longer made, but there are still a few around, need to be soaked longer because they have a harder, burnished finish.  Generally, the weight will increase an average of 50 grains on a 11/32 shaft.  More on 23/64 shafts, of course, but I don't shoot them.  

I have also soaked them under pressure for several days.  This forces about 200 grains of weight into the shaft.  Unfortunately, they then bleed for the next two weeks.  But I still ended up with about 75 grains per shaft weight gain that way.

Need to let the shafts dry at least two weeks if you're going to apply lacquer over the oil.  The Lacquer will adhere, but is more susceptible to chipping/flaking off when the surface is broken.

I've gone to using them as is without the lacquer treatment, except perhaps for crown dipping.

Good luck.

[Smallwood]

orion, what glue are you using to fletch with on the ones without the lacquer?