Introduction and A Question on Hunting Arrow Building

[Wheatwt]

Hello from Western Kentucky! I am a long time rifle and muzzleloading hunter who has decided to dip a toe in the trad bow waters.  I recently came into possession of a new Bear super grizzly #45 recurve and have been shooting some old arrows I found laying around from a 20yo pse compound I had sitting in garage.  I have been lurking on the forum for a while trying to learn how to set this recurve up and what arrows/equip I need but I am 100% completely new to the traditional archery game. I have learned, after reading as much as I can, that I don't know squat and I am more than a little overwhelmed!  FOC? GPP? Spine? I think I have figured out the general idea of these terms but I have a lot of learning to do.

I am hopeful y'all can help me figure out a good starting arrow setup for deer/turkey/small game hunting that won't break the bank. For reference, I am shooting a 45# at 28in new production bear super grizzly with the stock string. My draw length is currently right at 28 inches on this bow measured with those old arrows I found. I have 0 intent to take any shots longer than 10-15 yards TOPS. Currently shooting split finger with no tab or glove. (Do I have to use one?) I think, from what I have read and I could be completely wrong, that I should try and put together some carbon arrows weighing somewhere around 500+ish grains, should shoot for a high FOC, and need something like a 600ish spine in a 29-30 inch arrow. Having no experience putting an arrow together I was planning on buying from somewhere that will cut and install the inserts, etc. Do you guys think that the gold tip traditional 1535's in the 600 spine, cut at 29.5in, with 100gr brass inserts for screw in broadheads and a 150gr broadhead/field tip would be a good starting point? Price really is a consideration and these seem expensive but also seem to be a popular arrow. I plan on buying a half dozen and seeing how it goes if you guys think this is a decent setup.

Thanks for your time and help! I am really enjoying going through as many old posts as I can to learn and I hope to contribute wherever I am able.

-Warner

[RIVERWOLF]

Hey Warner,
Welcome aboard !

I'll try and add a "little" and let others do some talking
First, make sure the bow is setup as per the company (Bear archery) recommends ...and with a newer(safe) string the proper length ..and Temporary/adjustable nocking point (masking tape works in a pinch looped above or above and below  the nock location on the string. Uusally starting about 1/2" above square will get you started in most cases. 

2ndly, You will need to determine your draw length with that bow, not what you had with a compound     That will let you know how close you are to factory specs and will get you started with a few spine selections/options. Being close as you can with draw and weight will really narrow down the options.

3rd..Yes, you want a arm guard/bracer and a glove/tab or both until you decide what you are more comfy with, but you will want them. 

4th,,,you can put this one at the top of the list ;^) 
Get on line and either pickup a used or New
Book ...""Traditional Bowhunters Handbook" by TJ Conrads !  You will use this again and again for reference . Great Book that covers A LOT of what you need to know and will likely want to reference many many times as you progress down the path of Tradiotional Archery/ Bowhunting.

I'll let some others add some comments....Best with your journey my friend.


DO NOT let this intimidate you...It is very simple . Much simplier to show and help than to explain

ps...purchase and USE  a stringer !!! The bow will Thank you

[Wheatwt]

Thanks Riverwolf! Book has been ordered per your advice.

Questions:
1. Is the string that came stock with the bow not safe/quality? This is a new production bow with what I assume is a new production string, purchased at a Cabelas. 

2. I measured my draw length on this bow by having my wife mark/tape an arrow when I came to what felt to me like full draw, came out to 28, repeated a few times. Is there a better way to measure?

Thanks again!

-Warner

[RIVERWOLF]

Hey bud...
1=if it's a New bow and string (and no visable damage=fraying/nicks) it should be good to go once set between factory rec. brace. I don't have nor have I had a Bear Super Griz. I know several good folks on here do. If someone doesn't chim in , try Bear's website for the rec. brace height for a good starting point.(just mho the factory strings need REPLACING

2nd= If you are coming to a good repeatable anchor( corner of you mouth with middle finger) That is a good basic anchor point to start. For some that is good. others they have to go further up/down on the face or further back so as to get your back into the draw and good alignment.

3rd...I would ALWAYS use a stringer with a recurve. Hope you are doing so .

Feel free to pm me if a few others don't chim in...That book will help you immensely !
*Don't over bow yourself...and firstly work on a good repeatable form.....Without learning good form from the get-go with a bow you can easily handle will keep you struggling.....

I don't visit these websites  often these days , but I will check back sometime Monday. I'm sure many will offer some addditional help . A lot of good info out even on line. Try utube and ...

Check out """Jeff Kavanagh""" videos on shooting. Top notch , and Jeff is very good at articulating the shot process.    Watch and enjoy. .........

[Hud]

The factory string is great. The factory usually gives a range of string height. You can start by stretching the string when it is strung, either by pressing down on both limbs together. Sitting with the bow string up and pressing down with both hands where the string is below the nocks. Not hard. Most strings are fast flight on newer bows, unless they specify dacron strings only.

Having someone mark the shaft at full draw three times and averaging the length from the bottom of the nock is perfect.

When you start shooting stay close, 10 yds is enough, without any target on the hay bale or backstop, hang a weighted string that you can line up arrow at full draw. Shooting this way will help, because there is no bullseye.  Arrows that are right of the string are weak, and left are stronger spine as a general rule for a right-hand archer. If you use hay, there is always the possibility of the nock being right or left with the arrow hitting the string, due to the grain in the bale. A foam target butt can be easier to use.

I agree use an arm guard and tab or glove. Your string will have some twist, usually one turn/inch is good, more is okay but not less. Keep the string waxed. Always feel the string at the nock when stringing before releasing pressure when you step on the stringer and slide the string up. I like the stringers with two leather cups at each end, the bigger one at the bottom. I don't recommend a rubber tip protector as it can hold debris and moisture.

I would recommend looking at the spine charts online at 3Rivers Archery. You'll gradually begin to pick up information. Lastly, I would recommend staying with wood arrows, while you learn and become more proficient and confident in your shooting. 

Good shooting.

[Wheatwt]

Thank you sir! I appreciate the advice.  I have a stringer and a tab ordered from 3rivers.

-W

[Pine]

Bear Super Griz is hard to beat.
Set your brace height at 8" and you should be golden.
Welcome from Michigan. 

[Stumpkiller]

Good luck on your journey.  Mine lead me to Douglas fir shafts, tapered the last 10", and brodheads made in the 1960's (Moc Dots). Shoot what shoots well for you and practice a lot on targets that don't bleed before you attempt those that do.

[LookMomNoSights]

PM sent ............

[Orion]

Welcome to the gang.  I think you are pretty close with your initial guestimate on arrow spine.  However, given that you're going to be putting a fair amout of weight up front -- 250 grains -- they may be a little soft.  May need 35/55s instead.  Good idea to get a test pack to start. If you already have the 15/35s, you can always reduce point weight if they seem a bit soft.

Regarding FOC, a lot of folks, including myself, like a fair amount of FOC, but it's not necessary.  Anything in the 10-12% range is fine.

With a recurve, you can probably get away without an arm guard.  if you do any amount of shooting, you will likely want some finger protection though. In addition to the bow stringer, the only other piece of equipment you should have is a bow square, to set nocking point and check brace height periodically.  A quiver of some sort will also come in handy. 

Good luck.  Have fun.     

[Wheatwt]

Thank you. I will take a look at the 35/55's.

-W

[Rob DiStefano]

Welcome to Trad Gang.   

You've been given some good advice already. 

This article may also help, or at least tick off key points for trad bowhunters - https://www.tradgang.com/docs/trad.html

Archery is like any other free form aiming sport and consistent accuracy is dependent on consistency of shooting form and tackle.  The arrow is far more important than the bow and it's best to at least start off using an arrow that will be both consistent and tough without changing uniformity, which pretty much points to carbon shafting. 

Good luck on your trad bowhunting journey, hope it's an interesting and fun one!