thoughts on Ashby setup?

[Terry Green]

The total weight of the arrow is more important than the foc. Removing arrow weight just for foc is ridiculous.

The real trick is to actually go hunting and kill something. 

[Mint]

For whitetails I try for 10 or 11 gpp. For most hogs this works well too. As both Terry and Ryan stated above I'd rather shoot a big broadhead in case i hit too far back and that has worked out really well for me.

[ozy clint]

The total weight of the arrow is more important than the foc. Removing arrow weight just for foc is ridiculous.

The real trick is to actually go hunting and kill something. 

I think what he was eluding to is that you can gain FOC by designing the arrow to be lighter in the rear end and redistributing it to the front.

For numbers sake, 20grs removed from the rear could have the same effect as adding 75grs to the front.
This approach can help you get a high FOC without having a ridiculously heavy arrow. The higher the FOC goes the more point weight you need to add to make the FOC go up. Subtracting a small amount of weight from the rear can have a much greater effect in raising the FOC.


I have made a 1005gr arrow that I shoot from a 70#@28" Border Black Douglas recurve. From memory it has 660gr upfront and a 7" footing of 2020 aluminum shaft. The shaft is an Axis 5mm in 400 spine. The secret is the 7" footing. This allows the use of a light gpp shaft because the dynamic spine is increased dramatically because of the short flexible portion.

[Pappy 1]

I suppose it is a good thing for those that want to make things complicated, as for me I shoot about 500/550 weight arrow with a sharp broad head out of around 50lb bow, tuned well. It has worked for me for 45 years so I like to keep it simple. don't have to do a lot of math to make my arrows. I never even heard of FOC until the last few years,as they say to each their own, and really have no issues with people that want to go through all of that, just not for me. 
 Pappy