Weak shafts

[B4NZ41]

(I shoot a 45# Kmag that I overdraw to about 29")
Well I got another batch of 36" 23/64 Poplars spined at 56-60, and took a few outside to bare shaft em.
They all snapped on impact.
The first arrow was nock left, so I sawed the next 2 down about 3", the next 2 were only a little nock left, but still blew up on impact (halfway up the shaft).

Am I doing something weird, or is poplar just a really weak wood?

Any tips (including advice on touch wood) would be much appreciated. Thanks.

[Killdeer]

I have broken a lot of ash shafts that way. Ash ain't known for being easy to break.
I don't bareshaft wood anymore.
I don't think your shafts are too weak, they might even be a touch stiff, at least the way I shoot. I would fletch them up and shoot them, and see if you like them.

A lot of folks go for shafts much stiffer than I do, but I know what works for me. I shoot K-Mags a lot. Cool bows!    

Killdeer

[Falk]

The main thing with bare shafting is to step back 15yrds - at least. From what you wrote I suppose, you were to close to your target and no wonder, all shafts snapped.
Allow plenty of space besides your target and never ever bare shaft a broadhead ...

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I agree with Killdeer, Fletch them and see how they fly... cut 1/4" re taper and shoot again till you get great flight... I only use bareshaft planning to help fine tune... just like O.L. Adcock does on his website.

[aromakr]

If those shafts are in fact 36" long and you are not cutting them they spine 26-30# take off 2" and they are still only 36-40# Your Kmag is about 51# at 29". Spine is calculated at 28" not the full length of the shaft. Even cut to 29" they will be a tad too weak, as the Kmag is cut to  center.
Bob

[B4NZ41]

Good info.

Thanks very much.  :D