TG BOW SWAP 2012 (pics and post)

Started by KellyG, January 08, 2012, 10:06:00 PM

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KellyG

Well I took about 40 total scraps off each limb and have them both moving a little. It is pull 30# at about 2.5". Once I have it moving more I will post pics of where I am at on this bow.

DVSHUNTER

I started heating up another osage bow last night. I'm still planning on plan a while I still have time. Plan b is ready to ship, but I still have two months.
"There is a natural mystic flowing through the air; if you listen carefully now you will hear." Bob Marley

DVSHUNTER

I heated up my trade bow again. I think I've just about got it. I've heated each limb once now and will heat the whole bow one more time.

 
"There is a natural mystic flowing through the air; if you listen carefully now you will hear." Bob Marley

vanillabear?

Got a little work done on a potential trade bow. It came off the form more flexible that I anticipated......was able to short string it and pull it to 21" before I hit 50#. Hopefully I have enough room and skill to get the tiller dialed in. Here are a couple of pics. No tillering done yet at all, just a little tip and handle work. Pics are of first brace and first pull to 21". Gonna try to get the reflexed part of the limb to open up more yet.




Roy from Pa

Scott, are you saying you just strung up the bow and pulled it right back to 21 inches on the very first pull?

vanillabear?


Roy from Pa

I was just surprised that you did that is all. When I put a bow on the tree, I pull about 30 times to maybe 7 inches, then 8, then 9, etc. I have never strung up a new bow build and just pulled her back to 21. Always wanted to try though:) That is as long as the tiller looks good. Maybe I have been doing it wrong, pulling to every inch 30 times. I suppose after the tiller looks good I could yank her back a ways. Your thoughts and how you tiller?

canopyboy

My black locust stave (option A) was floor tillered on the bandsaw and the back sealed maybe the middle of January?  It's been sitting in the living room with the woodstove ever since.  I pulled it out last night and I'm happy to say it's taken a lot of reflex.  Sorry, should have taken a picture.

When I grew up, you could tell if wood was dry enough for firewood or for use in the cabinet shop by how it sounded.  Good, dry, solid wood and a certain nice ring to it.  This stave has as nice of a tone as I can ever remember hearing when you rap on it.  Anyone ever use this method for determining how seasoned wood is?  I can't imagine it's super accurate, but maybe adequate for the purpose at hand?

Second question, how does black locust respond to dry heat?  I need to get a little propeller out it.
TGMM Family of the Bow
Professional Bowhunters Society

"The earth has its music for those who will listen." - Santayana

red hill

I tillered my trade bow to 25" pulling 55# this afternoon. It feels good in the hand when short drawn.
I'm liking the bamboo. But a problem I seem to be having is there's 1/4" of positive tiller that I haven't been able to reduce. With hickory backed osage I alternate from top limb to bottom limb when shooting in between scrape sessions. I haven't been doing that with the boo backed osage.
Any suggestions. I'm using the gizmo and don't increase draw until there are no marks on either limb.   :dunno:

Roy from Pa

When are we gonna see some Bow pictures in here?

vanillabear?


Roy from Pa

Very sweet Scott.

Red it will come around. Ya sure your removing wood from the stiff limb? Don't laugh, but I know a guy from Pa who has done things backwards before:)

D

Very good looking bow.  At least it was just the tip click you heard and not the infamous splinter lifing tick.  I use Gorilla super glue and have only had one pop off like that but it was with a deer horn tip.  I later learned from on here that with porus material like horn, bone or wood with a lot of grain to fill that its best to take the thinner super glue and put a layer on it and let it soak in and rub it in with your finger and let it dry then glue the tip on with the thicker Gorilla super glue.  I did that when mine popped off and haven't had a problem since.

Roy from Pa

I use smooth on for tip overlays, it takes a day to dry, but I have never had an overlay come off. I glue the riser and tips on at the same time.

SportHunter

Nice looking bow Scott. That should finish out nicely.

This thread is getting stale, come on guys, post some pics of your progress or recently received bows.

I think we have about 70 bows to get finished & shipped in the next 72 days before the July 7th deadline.

Cuban Missile

Javier

red hill

Thanks, Vanilla Bear and Roy. Yeah, I'm removing from the correct limb. I'll just keep at it.

LeeNY

Sorry I haven't been here posting my progress, but when I started I was unemployed. I guess it'd the norm for 60yr. old's now. I now am working again after 5 months.

Here is my progress, first off I had 2 failures both with hickory. First was a board bow that broke at the nock. Second was a hickory stave that broke during the tillering process.

I went back to the Osage stave I originally posted before the drawing. The drawing through me off. My *********** had a super long draw. After both Hickory bows resulted in fire wood. I called on several resources from Trad Gang. All said use the osage but since the draw length is *1.5 go slow and use every bit of the limb you can.

Here's some pics taken a week ago;
 

The limb on the right is stiff ans as of today still is. although a little less. The Left limb is bending except for 3 small areas where there are proud areas on the back.

I am maintaining to work slow then I'll flip the tips to allow for the *1.5" draw.

Sorry for not keeping up to date with the progress, but my new job has been a dominant force just trying to keep up with.

Lee

Roy from Pa

Not a problem Lee, a man gotta do what a man gotta do. Bow looks real nice.

LeeNY

Updates will be quicker now??????


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