Goldtip trad shaft durability problem

[Monte]

I took some 55/75 trad gold tips with a 100 grain brass insert and judo head out for some stump shooting.  After only a few stump hits the brass insert (from 3 rivers was driven back into the shaft about 1/4" and the shaft was split all the way around.  Has anyone else run into this problem.  Not sure if the problem was the glue used for the insert, the size collar on the brass insert or simply a problem with the traditional gold tips.  I will call 3 rivers on Monday but first thought I would query the forum for some suggestions.  Thanks.

[SOS]

Monte,  I've had nothing but good success with GT's and stumpshooting.  From Armadillos to a piece of cinderblock they've held up well - these were the GT aluminum in 3555's.  That said, I just got some 100 gr brass inserts and put them in some 5575's like yours.  I haven't stumped with them yet.  The only difference may be the brass seems to be a slide fit instead of a press fit, so it may make the glue joint a little more critical.  Do you think you got complete glue coverage and cleaned the shaft and insert before gluing?  What glue did you use?  I'll let you know if I experience similar problems with the brass.

[hormoan]

Hi Monte

    With out douth some of the carbons are tougher than others. And you have found everyone of there weak link. The insert's being driven into the shafts. If you put a alum cut off collar on them. They will become one of the toughest shafts you will ever shoot. I cut mine on my lathe usually around 1.5" long ususally adds around 14 grs to the front of the shaft. No issue as I like a weight forward setup. They will end up looking something like this. Things I hit really hard now with these installed. Most always worst case issue is the inserts are blown out forward from the inertia of the hit, with no damage to the carbon\\alum end. Actually I have yet to destroy one! And these are Gold Tips. Good luck!
 

[Monte]

thanks for the replies.  I used the gold tip "tip grip" quick set glue. Probably should have used epoxy. Aluminum collars looks like a fix. I will shoot some of my other (non traditional gold tips) with 100 gr.brass insert at stumps tomorrow for comparison. Trad gold tips diameter seems a little larger than non tradition in the same size (55/75) Not sure if that could also be a factor with size of brass inserts. Thanks again for your thoughts guys.

[Shawn Leonard]

What Brent said, just foot them with aluminum, make sure ya use 24 hour epoxy an dget the footing to the very end of the insert, they will become near indestructable. Shawn

[juneaulongbow]

I've had the same thing happen to me.  I'm shooting Gold Tips camo with brass inserts.  I've had the brass inserts bend on about 3 occasions. How did you cut your shafts?

[Toxophilite]

For some reason, when you use a fast-setup glue or epoxy for inserts, they tend to jam back into the shaft when you hit something hard. The 24 hr epoxy works a lot better, and the aluminum footing is like insurance.

[Scott E]

what size alum shafts do you use for the footing? Sounds like a really good idea. Do you ever have trouble with the footing in high density targets? pulling them out in particular.-Scott

[Zmonster]

I just started footing my CX Heritage shafts after a few getting busted up hitting rock and what not. I gotta thank ya again Shawn.

Let me tell ya. This is the BEST invention. I used loctite Sumo glue, and intentionaly have shot at rocks, metal doors, trees, cinder blocks, etc... trying to break the arrow, and the only thing that happens is my field tip gets messed up. All my arrows will be footed from now on. BTW Im using 2216 shafts cut to 1" on my Heritage 150's.

[Widowbender]

What size shaft are you guys using for the footing?

David

oops, I see 2216 now... will these work with a CE heritage 250?

[Scott E]

what about 2117 or 2219 for a footing?

[Cherokee Scout]

Keep in mind that the brass inserts are slightly too small for the Gold Tip, While many Gold Tip shooters use them, they need to be glued or epoxied in securly. Because they are slightly small for the shaft, they sometimes do break loose because they need a more glue or epoxy to hold them in place.

[JC]

JB weld with proper shaft prep (minor scoring of insert area and cleaning with MEK or other cleaner prior to gluing) ...problem is dramatically minimized in all the brands of shafts I've tried it on.

Brother Hormoan has a great point too...literally: footing the shaft increases durability yet another level.

[Billy]

I get the concept.
What about the shoulders of the footing though?
Do the shoulders hang up going in, or coming out of a target?
Should they be tapered? How do you taper them?

[Monte]

Thanks again to all.  You have given me and others several good options.  John, you are right in that the brass inserts are really not a great fit in gold tips. I am certainly going to epoxy everything from here on. Do those of you who use the aluminum footing do so on all your shafts or just those you stump with?

[Monte]

Thanks again to all.  You have given me and others several good options.  John, you are right in that the brass inserts are really not a great fit in gold tips. I am certainly going to epoxy everything from here on. Do those of you who use the aluminum footing do so on all your shafts or just those you stump with?

[BobW]

Can somebody answer the question:  what aluminum shaft for CX 250's?????

[GameGetter]

I cut my footings 1"-1 1/2" long then chuck them in a drill press and taper the back edge with a file. real quik and easy and then they pull right out of targets!

[Zmonster]

I purchased a RCBS Chamfer and Deburring Tool that allows me to tapper the inside and outside of the footing. It still hangs up, but only a tiny bit. Not enough to be concerned about. I also use Sumo glue which expands, but not as much as gorilla glue to fill the slight gap between the footing and shaft.

[Shawn Leonard]

Bob, a 2117 or a 2216 will work. I have used both and they fit almost the same on the al lthe Heriatge shafts! Shawn