I'm debating whether or not to try some carbon express heritage 350's maybe.... I'm shooting 55 @ 27. with this be enough? I was thinking that i could cut my arrows to 28" giving me 336 BEFORE i screw a tip in. I'm looking for about a 500grain arrow. does anyone have experience with heritages ? and does my setup sound good?
      thanks,
                 Morgan

I can tell you what works in my Black Widow SAG.

I shoot Heritage 150s out of my bow.  It is marked 58#s at 28", but I shoot 25".  I have a 50 grain insert with a 125 grain BH.  With Wraps and fletching it's at 535 grains give or take a few with the arrow at 29 1/2".  Flys like a dart.

It would seem to me like the 350s would be way stiff and you would have to weight the tip pretty good and increase the weight significantly. Especially if you are cutting arrows at 28"

Maybe someone with more experience with 250s and 350s might be able to help.

I think they would be alittle too stiff.I never just cut a carbon arrow to a certain length without shooting and tuning them.I think CE 150 Heritage might work better.I've shot 350's out of my 70#@27 longbow,they fly great but I tuned them for the bow.With carbon arrows I like to start at full length and trim and tune with the weight I plan on using upfront.I shot 150's out of a 56#@27 longbow,flew great.

i also think 350s will be too stiff. I have some 250s cut to 28 and they are too stiff for my 50# recurve. To be able to shoot the 250s I have to load the tip with 265 grains to weaken them enough to get good arrow flight. 150s would be my pick and i just ordered some yesterday.

I agree with the above, way too stiff for your bow.  I shoot 350s out of my 67#@27 longbow with 250gr up front.  According the the Stu calc they should work well on my 72# Silvertip when it arrives next month.
Go with the 150s and add tubes if you need weight.

350 will be way stiff @ 27. You are in a zone for 150 or maybe 250. I use 250's with my mid 50# bows. However my draw is 30 and my arrows are cut to 31. giving me a bop of 31.5. Depending on bow I use 50 or 100g inserts and 125 BH.

350's will probably be a bit much...BUT, the nice thing about Carbon Express inserts is that they're threaded all the way through, so you can use PDP (Gold Tip weights in them).  You could probably do some playing with the 250's to make them fly, but maybe not cut at 28 inches.  The best thing to do is buy one from a pro shop.  BEFORE you cut/glue the inserts in, bareshaft them into a layered foam target.  You can either put saran wrap over the end of the shaft and push the insert in, or just shoot them, and the tip/insert will come through the back of the target.  I always go with the stiffest shaft that I can get weighted and make fly, since I like a heavy arrow.  I usually use Easton FMJ's, but I've got a couple dozen CX Aramid KV 350's that shoot really well out of my 50# ILF rigs (full length with 100 grains in the insert and a 150 tip, for a total of 250 gr. up front).

150s at the most.

I agree 350's will be stiff I shoot 250's out of my 50lb recurve but I have a 31 1/2" draw shooting a 32 7/16" arrow with 200 grains up front.

Right now i have a dozen CE 250's that are bareshafting waaay to weak out of my 60#@28 longbow. They are at about 31 inches with 125 grains up front. my draw is 29.4 inches so i have an inch or 2 to play with. Ive never tried cutting an arrow down. You cut frm the nock end correct? Do i have a chance with the amt of wiggle room i have? Or should i scrap them and try something else?

Any way with my results i would be inclined to tell you that 250's may work for you with some weight up front. From what ive learned on this site, you can make almost any arrow work for your bow if you play with the point weight, length, shelf etc...

Also Stu's calculator  tells me that my set up is too stiff.

Im all hosed

QuoteOriginally posted by Sequoia:
Right now i have a dozen CE 250's that are bareshafting waaay to weak out of my 60#@28 longbow. They are at about 31 inches with 125 grains up front. my draw is 29.4 inches so i have an inch or 2 to play with. Ive never tried cutting an arrow down. You cut frm the nock end correct? Do i have a chance with the amt of wiggle room i have? Or should i scrap them and try something else?

Any way with my results i would be inclined to tell you that 250's may work for you with some weight up front. From what ive learned on this site, you can make almost any arrow work for your bow if you play with the point weight, length, shelf etc...

Also Stu's calculator  tells me that my set up is too stiff.

Im all hosed

I too have one of the weird setups that only shoots a stiff arrow...  If I shoot the arrows that are "supposed" to be spined for my bows, they all come out WAY underspined.  At 50 pounds, the only way that I can get 250 to fly is cut at 29" with no weight in the insert and a 125 tip.  However, I shoot ILF rigs which are all a ways past center, so once I get the centershot figured out, arrow spine is much less critical.  

...I've got a couple dozen Easton FMJ Dangerous Game 250 shafts (which I think are one of/the stiffest carbon shafts on the market) and they bareshaft perfect at 52 @ 29, cut at 32" with a 100 gr. insert and a 175 grain tip.

If you've already glued the inserts in, then cutting from the nock end is much easier.  Like I said in my earlier post, I just push the inserts/tip in and shoot into a layered foam target with a piece of plywood behind the target.  Either the tip will blow through the target, or it will stick in the shaft, and you can just push the shaft through the target and grab the tip...Seems to work pretty well for me.

"I just push the inserts/tip in and shoot into a layered foam target with a piece of plywood behind the target"

JUST got some CE 350's in the mail. I'll use this method to dial them in. Thanks.

Also, im still going to mess around with the 250's. hate to think that all that money was a waste

youngarcher1.......I sent you a PM

Thanks for the info everyone! im definitely going to have to research it a lot more

I just used Stu's calculator for the first time this morning and the results may really surprize you? I know I was very impressed with the results and it confirmed what I already knew from trial and error, but it also gave me a good starting point with my new dozen Bemans that are on the way to me. You should give it a honest go and input your specs as close to accurate as possible and see what you come up with. Play around with the point wts. and arrow length on the calculator to see what combos will work for your outfit. It's like being able to change components and trim inches or add inches to arrows without actually screwing any of your good shafts up. That's a money saver right there!

Here's the link, and be sure to save or print the directions.
http://www.heilakka.com/stumiller/

a lot of people bash the goldtips but I think they are good arrows and you can always find them at decent prices.