Ive upped my spine for my longbow to where i need a 160gr head. I have alot of 125-145gr heads laying around. How much lead shot can be added to the front part of the ferrule so it still mounts well? I did a little playin around with it with a stubborn self bow a while back, i melted lead shot down in a field point, then poured it into broadhead ferrule and inserted arrow taper, all the while keeping broadhead pointed downward so lead would seat properly! Was my method pretty much the way to do it?

MN,are you shooting wood shafts?  

I recently melted 20 grs of lead into a Grizzly broadhead ferrule an still could mount a 125 gr adapter in it.The adapter is about 1" long.I can melt 28 grs of lead into the hollow cavity of a 100 gr adapter.Maybe this will give you some idea.I guess it would depend on how deep your broadhead ferrule is and you can cut back your taper to whatever you are comfortable with.

I thought i remembered you were using wood shafts,if so,I bet you could bump up your 125's another 35 grs if you needed to.

I have also tamped lead birdshot in with a 1/8" punch,when I didn't want to heat a broadhead.It seems to work as well.

Tamp 35 grs of lead into a broadhead,stick your taper in and see how much has to come off the taper,then you will know if you are in business.Good luck with it.

Thanks Jim, yep i shoot wood!

I add enough to make my judo points weigh 160 grains and glue onto my woods

OK,MN,you should be in good shape.Your lightest broadhead would need 35 grains (125) to equal 160.Most of the time I average 3 grs of glue to glue on the broadhead.15 #6(30 grs) pellet tamped into the broadhead ferule + 3 grs glue would equal
33 grs.I doubt if you would have to cut your shaft tapers to more than 7/8".

I like to tamp lead into my broadheads to avoid temper-robbing heat.You may

not have to tamp,if you have enough room in the ferrule.For those who use adapters,if you tamp,be very careful not to bend the adapter

shank.Melting lead will avoid that.

Thanks again jim! The way ive done it before saves the heat being applied to the broad head, as i heat up enough lead in a 125gr head to get it to 160gr and then pour it into broad head ferrule!

You can also add lead (weight) by drilling into the wood shaft on the point end, and gluing in your lead. The front loading jig is now sold by 3R, and it works great for adding weight and or strength to front of shaft.

I use lead solder, weigh it out before melting. I have only used it in the hollow point of a steel insert.

That's a good way to do it MN.

And thanks Jack,I forgot to mention that jig.Adding a little strength to the front has to be a plus.

I've done the same thing with solder.