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First time stump/ my insert glues bad

Started by sawtoothscream, February 16, 2011, 01:49:00 PM

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sagebrush

It might also work to get a brass brush for cleaning rifles and run that in there a few times to clean out the glue. Gary

Jimbow39

On cedars I use hot melt but I also run a tap in the point to put some thread to hold instesd of a smooth surface. On 11/32" points I use a 1/4" tap. On 23/64" I use 5/16" tap. Works for me.

sawtoothscream

i got some jb weld and plan on redoing all my arrow today and let them sit over night. then i can see how they hold up in the morning.

thanks
- Hunterbow 58"  47# @26"
-bear kodiak 60"  45# at 28"

sawtoothscream

just got done.

soaked the inserts in goo off and clean them all up, roughed up the saft and removed glue inside with a barrel brush then used a Q tip and rubbing alcohal to clean the inside then jb welded it in. tomarrow morning will be the test i guess.
- Hunterbow 58"  47# @26"
-bear kodiak 60"  45# at 28"

Trad Whitetail

I do exactly what Guru does.  sawtoothscream - One thing to look out for when you do this (I know - you are already committed now   :) ) is to make sure your footings are square and line up flush with whatever broadhead you are using.  If they are too far back they will leave a gap that could inhibit penetration.  If they are touching the back of your broadhead and are not square you will have alignment issues.  If you do have alignment issues they still work for stumping, judos, and field points though.  Don't ask how I know!    :knothead:    

JB Weld - the arrow maker's duct tape!   :D

sawtoothscream

QuoteOriginally posted by Trad Whitetail:
I do exactly what Guru does.  sawtoothscream - One thing to look out for when you do this (I know - you are already committed now    :)  ) is to make sure your footings are square and line up flush with whatever broadhead you are using.  If they are too far back they will leave a gap that could inhibit penetration.  If they are touching the back of your broadhead and are not square you will have alignment issues.  If you do have alignment issues they still work for stumping, judos, and field points though.  Don't ask how I know!     :knothead:    

JB Weld - the arrow maker's duct tape!    :D  
i dont know what size arrow i need so i dont have footings yet.  i have to buy a arrow saw and g5 arrow sqaure soon. i hate not having all the stuff to make arrows. think that will be my next purchase
- Hunterbow 58"  47# @26"
-bear kodiak 60"  45# at 28"

Trad Whitetail

You are on the right track with the arrow saw and g5 arrow square.  Also, a set of digital calipers used in conjunction with the chart that shows the inside diameter of the different sizes of aluminum arrows will get you very close to the size of footing you want.

xtrema312

QuoteOriginally posted by Schafer:
What type of arrows are you using? I had this happen with my goldtips. What we ended up doing is sanding the inside of the shaft a little (with a chainsaw file) to make it ruff and for the inside of the arrow to except the glue better, then when it was smooth on the inside of the arrow. This helped quite a bit.

Schafer
Same here.  A file did the trick then acetone to clean up.  Now I can use hot melt.  I did lose one the other day after I stuck it well past the brass insert in a 2x4, but other than that no problems.
1 Timothy 4:4(NKJV)
For every creature of God is good, and nothing is to be refused if it is received with thanksgiving.

Firefly Long Bow  James 4:14
60" MOAB 54@29 James 1:17

Michigan Longbow Association

sawtoothscream

QuoteOriginally posted by Trad Whitetail:
You are on the right track with the arrow saw and g5 arrow square.  Also, a set of digital calipers used in conjunction with the chart that shows the inside diameter of the different sizes of aluminum arrows will get you very close to the size of footing you want.
thanks im just going to take one of my broken GT arrows to the local shop and see what alum saft fits the best.
- Hunterbow 58"  47# @26"
-bear kodiak 60"  45# at 28"


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