Just wondering if someone could help me with selecting the carbon arrow spline size for my bow? It's a browning nomad 52" 46#@28" my draw length is 26.5". I'm shooting split finger if that makes a difference. I'm trying a gold tip 3555 @ 27" but the fletching is hitting about 2" to left of the field point,it's not hitting the target straight at 10 yards but straightens out closer at 20 yards. I've changed different field tips sizes with no change. Shot through paper with a 2" tear exactly horizontal, fletching to the left and point to the right. I'm grouping them 3" where I'm aiming at.

Not too sure about the particulars of the arrow ie. point weight, length etc... But my initial oponion would be that the 3555 is too stiff an arrow for approx 40lb draw.

Keep the arrow long, and the point weight up, or try aluminum. There seem to be more choices in the weaker spines with aluminum.

Regards,

B

If aluminum I would recommend either 1916 or 1913 shafts.

Charles.

Alum. 1816 just might work also.

If you want to go with carbons then you will have to go lighter then the 500 spine.

I just went through the same grueling process. Finding the right arrow can be a pain. Two things that can save a bit of time and effort though. Try a bit more weight of front to soften the spine up and see if it flies better like that. Also the release is key. If you are even slightly pushing the string left or plucking your results will be off.

I tried using my Easton xx75 2018 with the same results except the arrows hitting the target the opposite with point in the center of the target and the fletching 2" to the right. I'm trying to find several weaker spline aluminum shafts to try like the sizes mentioned earlier by Jar head and Whittler. The problem I'm haven is the archery shops around here have to order them and thy have to order a dozen at a time.

From what you describe the 2018 is getting close.

You can order test kits from 3 rivers achery if that would be a better option.

If you've recently picked up a recurve. I would also recommend fletching up some shafts that are close, and working on perfecting your form before getting too technical about arrow spine.

When I first started I could not bareshaft or broadhead tune because my form was so bad. I'm now to the point where I know to stop when I'm too tired and form is falling apart.

Until I reached that point all my "tuning" just ruined my confidence and amost ruined my shoulder.

B

A good friend of mine who use to shoot traditional is helping me with my form he says it looks good and my release is good also. when I practice Imay shoot about 2 hrs at a time.

I shoot 500 spine out of a 56# Nomad, so, I'm guessing you need to find you some 600's.

These 90 shafts might work if you shoot heavy heads and/or keep'em long.

http://www.carbonexpressarrows.com/cms/node/75

I don't know if would, but would changing brace height do anything?

I ditto the 0.600.  A 2018 is way too stiff.

Note you can get some good readings with an arrow that is too stiff - called a false positive.

Bowmania