I just got a feather burner and need to know how to keep the burner from burning the cresting job as i want to burn banana cut feathers?
thanks
Dean

I keep my ribbons just far enough away from the shaft as to not burn the quill.Then I'll trim with a razor or exato knife.The ribbon may move a little when it is heated up so I have some test shafts to make sure it doesn't move to close to the shaft after heated up.Just takes alitte practice to get it adjusted.I have made some mistakes myself,I remember I got it too close to a wood arrow that was finished with gasket lacquer and it lit up like a match head.Just keep the ribbons far enough away from the shaft and you'll be fine.I love my burner,have had it for around 20 years and still works great.

what he said.

thanks

I used a little tape around the shafts on either end of the fletch. It helped but didn't prevent burning. I am a rookie and learning.

I loved burning my own feathers.

Keep the arrow moving too!  Don't stop in any spot or the paint can scorch and turn colors.

Unless you have a very forgiving wife,  I wouldn't burn them in the house!!

actually wearing goggles can help too. I remember having some blurred vision when I had smoke in my eyes.

What is the best burner for the money and where could I get one?

Young feather burner at 3 Rivers

James...............

sounds like your crest is too close to the end of your feathers. Keep your ribbon about an 1/8" above the shaft.

Also make sure you roll your tips and glue

Craig what do you mean roll your tips? I got one on the way so this thread is perfect timing. Thanks guys!

i always thought you burned while holding the feather....


i guess if i ever get a burner , ill have to drill out a dowel end , and then cut a slit along it so i can slide a feather in , burn it , and not worry about the arrow...im not precise enough to not burn what im working on...

-hvo

I have burned all my feathers for 20 odd years and I never have trouble with burned cresting.

Set your ribbon so that it rides higher than the feather base or "catch lip" by about 1/16 inch or more.

Make sure the ribbon maintains this clearance even when it is glowing hot.

Use a test arrow to prove it......glue up some junk feather pieces on an old piece of shaft.

Dont hesitate when you start the process keep it moving rotating the shaft so the feather burns as it rotates up through the burner.  This will prevent pieces of feather getting hung up on the ribbon and cooling it when it should be burnning cleanly through the next feather.

Here is a great secret.  Us a dremel tool with a small drum sander to remove the burned residue and the portion of feather remaining where the taper needs to meet the shaft. Carefully grind away the feather base down to almost flush with the shaft on the front edge.

A little practice will show you which way to run the spinning drum down the feather edge and then reverse the direction to clean up the very end of say a shield shape. Take your time and hold the arrow and dremel tool firmly to prevent the drum from contacting the shaft.

The dremel tool also softens the edge of a feather with repeated passes.  This helps make a brand new fletch job have that broke in quietness.

There is nothing like a burned feather.  I love splicing and being able to use up old pieces of feathers.

My daughter considers the faint smell of burnt feathers under her nose as a powerfull reminder of her early memories of traditional archery and her old dad.

Take a piece of a wood shaft a roll the tip of the feather and glue. Keeps the quill low to the shaft so your feathers don't lift up.
When you miss nothing will slide up under your feather.

Thanks Craig! Beautiful arrow by the way.

Keep the hot ribbon just off the feather base.  You can make the final cut on the base with a razor blade knife.  Cut on a bevel and apply a drop of glue.

Here is one I'm ready to fletch and burn.