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minwax for arras

Started by flyfish1, January 20, 2011, 01:01:00 PM

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flyfish1

Anybody use it? What to do ,not to do basically. Is it compatible with sealers typically used.
Ron A        

"When the buffalo are gone, we will hunt mice,for we are hunters and we want our freedom"
        ~Sitting Bull

lpcjon2

I use both Minwax stain and wipe on poly.And in the past used water based Minwax products as well and never had a problem.What are you using as a sealer? Why not the Minwax poly
Some people live an entire lifetime and wonder if they have ever made a
difference in the world, but the Marines don't have that problem.
—President Ronald Reagan

Stumpkiller



 

These are a yellow leather dye (water based) and an alcohol based stain coated with wiped-on Minwax polyuretyhane finish.  I'm very happy with the results.  No leeching at all.  Of course, Minwax stain under Minwax finish is OK also.

Fletch with Duco Cement.

 
Charlie P. }}===]> A.B.C.C.

Bear Kodiak & K. Hunter, D. Palmer Hunter, Ben Pearson Hunter, Wing Presentation II & 4 Red Wing Hunters (LH & 3 RH), Browning Explorer, Cobra II & Wasp, Martin/Howatt Dream Catcher, Root Warrior, Shakespeare Necedah.

flyfish1

lpcjon2,
        Just starting with wood, have been shooting carbon but cant resist wood it seems. Appreciate any advise.
Ron A        

"When the buffalo are gone, we will hunt mice,for we are hunters and we want our freedom"
        ~Sitting Bull

flyfish1

Stump those are very nice and about what Im looking to do. Thanks.
Ron A        

"When the buffalo are gone, we will hunt mice,for we are hunters and we want our freedom"
        ~Sitting Bull

flyfish1

Dumb question, seal with poly over the cresting?
Ron A        

"When the buffalo are gone, we will hunt mice,for we are hunters and we want our freedom"
        ~Sitting Bull

$bowhunter$

yes u ned to put a layer of poly over the cresting. 2 layers first then a 3 after cresting.
"SHOOT STRAIT" - something im still working twards

Stumpkiller

I do the black (it's a Sharpie permanent marker) and then seal with three coats wiped on.  The silver is a Pilot Silver Metallic Ink Marker and the polyurethane will remove that, so I put that on last.  The Sharpie is colorfast and you could do before or after sealing.

   

My Luddite cresting lathe.  The other end is just a double "V" block for the shaft to lay on.

   

I spin the shaft with my left hand and draw the line with my right.  I have a Bohning lathe and this was easier.      :biglaugh:
Charlie P. }}===]> A.B.C.C.

Bear Kodiak & K. Hunter, D. Palmer Hunter, Ben Pearson Hunter, Wing Presentation II & 4 Red Wing Hunters (LH & 3 RH), Browning Explorer, Cobra II & Wasp, Martin/Howatt Dream Catcher, Root Warrior, Shakespeare Necedah.

I have been using Minwax polystain and it works just fine. No glue problems, no lengthy dipping. Steel wool the shafts to get some of the surface oil out, then one good dip or wipe and let it dry. Paint if you like.

bigbadjon

I use Minwax sealers, stains, and polys for fast jobs. They are compatible with all non metallic acrylic paints I have used. If I want to seal over metallics I spray a gloss Krylon poly over the cresting before my Minwax dips.
Hoyt Tiburon 55#@28 64in
A&H ACS CX 61#@28in 68in (rip 8/3/14)

Wannabe1

Desert Shield/Storm, Somalia and IOF Veteran
"The Mountains are calling and, I must go!" John Muir

LimbLover

Me too...I love that yellow dye. I haven't tried any dyes yet.
Nick Viau
President, Michigan Longbow Association
www.michiganlongbow.org


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