How do you go about getting in the ballpark for wood arrows. Friend loaned me a Green Moutain LB, 68" long 59@28 , dacron string. I draw it 29". Thanks

There are so many variables. If your ordering arrows any quality dealer can answer all your questions with one phone call. Check the sponsors on this site and they will hook you up. Others will chime in with great advise. Good luck and enjoy the journey.

Keeping the Faith!
Magnus

Sorry didn't realize you were a Trad Gang veteran. You already know what I said.

Keeping the Faith!
Magnus

Add 5# of spine for the inch you draw past 28 inches, another 5# because you'll be pulling an additional 2 1/2-3# at 29 inches.  Thus, if you're not shooting a fast flite string or particularly heavy heads, and if the bow is cut 1/8 from center, arrows spined 65-70# should work for you.  Add 5# more if you're shooting a fast flite string, and another 5# if you're shooting heavy heads, say 160 grains or more.  Good luck.

Here's a ball-parky run down.  Start with the bow's draw weight at 28".  Add or deduct five pounds in arrow spine for every inch above or below 28" that you actually draw.  If you shoot heavier than 125 grains of head weight add five pounds of spine for every additional 45 grains (that one's REAL ballparky).

So, for you 59#@28" - round to 60# as wood shafts are usually sold in 5# ranges.  Add 5# for the added 1" draw.  If it was a center-cut recurve I'd say go on the side of heavy and start with 70-75#.  But, a longbow is (IMHO) more critical of a matched spine so, unless you are using a heavy head, I'd start with 65-70# spine.  

As a tweak you can start with the shafts full length and trim/taper them back 1/4" to 1/2" at a time for the best flight.

QuoteOriginally posted by Orion:
Add 5# of spine for the inch you draw past 28 inches, another 5# because you'll be pulling an additional 2 1/2-3# at 29 inches.  Thus, if you're not shooting a fast flite string or particularly heavy heads, and if the bow is cut 1/8 from center, arrows spined 65-70# should work for you.  Add 5# more if you're shooting a fast flite string, and another 5# if you're shooting heavy heads, say 160 grains or more.  Good luck.

Thanks, that's what I was looking for. Forgot it it's been so long!

62#atYour draw
+5 for each " over 28" of arrow shaft = 72
+5 for other then selfbow = 77
80-85 spine

Add 5 for FF string and 5 if cut past center so You can be 90-95 spine..

QuoteOriginally posted by mysticguido:
62#atYour draw
+5 for each " over 28" of arrow shaft = 72
+5 for other then selfbow = 77
80-85 spine

Add 5 for FF string and 5 if cut past center so You can be 90-95 spine..

Not that I want to pick a fight with you Mystic, but you have compensated for the added inch twice in your first two lines.  And, IMHO, you don't have to add for center-shot.  It is more tolerant.

I get great arrow flight with 60-65# spine (tapered the last 12" so I'm losing additional spine) cut to 30-1/2" BOP and drawn 30" in a center-cut recurve w/FF rated 52#@28".  That comes to 82# with your list!  That would put me out of the cedar game as they are passing rare past 65-70# spine.

It also has a LOT to do with rest, release, form and bow tune.  I also build out the riser pad as required to get them where I'm looking.

I have a Green Mountain longbow 66",61#@27 and it liked slighlty weaker spine.I shot 55#-59# tapered POC at 28" with 125 gr point from it,shot great.I think they are cut slightly more then an 1/8" off center so the slightly weaker spine worked for me on my Green Mountain.It's one of my keepers and favorite bows.

Stumpkiller, His bow is 59@28 , He draws it 29" that makes it 62#@29" from there I added 2" for the arrow length (30"BOP), I then added 5# because it's not a selfbow.. Since He has a B-50 string I didn't added anything Nor did I add if He uses a point weight over 145grns.. If My math is wrong sorry.. I'll go shoot some arrows now..