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One more back/shoulder/hip quiver question!

Started by YORNOC, January 14, 2011, 07:13:00 AM

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YORNOC

Trying to fine tune what people want.
If I were to offer kits with instructions and tools to build your own leather quivers of my design to keep cost down, how many out there would PREFER that to buying a finished one?
I hand stitch everything, so there is a lot of time in every one I make, so its tough to offer a cheapo. Even dropping to less costly leathers still leaves me with the building time involved.
And would you want to punch your own needle and lace holes, dye and oil unfinished leather, or just get it all ready to go and you sew and lace them together?
I was thinking an instructional video maybe of me making a quiver start to finish including dying, finishing, edging,  punching, sewing techniques etc. and post it here for eveybody to see.
The only drawback to this is you would need to purchase some minor tools or products if you don't have any on hand.
"A company" sells/used to sell back quiver kits but I wasn't impressed with the design. It was very easy to lace but kinda cheesy looking and not very durable because of the simple in out type lacing method. If the lace broke, the whole thing was coming apart. I saddle stitch almost everything now because its practically bombproof.
Its not easy to sew a quality quiver, it can be a bit hard on the hands and fingers. Its also pretty time consuming.
But if anybody would be willing I figure Tradgangers would be the people to grease the old elbows and have at it.......thanks for the input
David M. Conroy

magnus

Offer both and price accordingly. Some would like to do it all and some would like to just sew and some wouldn't want to do either. I think that's a great way to cater to a broader market.

Keeping the Faith!
Magnus
Keeping the Faith!
Matt
TGMM Family of the bow
Turkey Flite Traditional  
mwg.trad@yahoo.com

bigbadjon

I agree with Magnus. I think a kit would be a good starting point for people who aren't experienced and need a reference to begin. Personally I would be interested in buying quality patterns, like they sell at Tandy but of usable design. I also think with TBM running stuff about self bows and people are reading more about Glenn St. Charles, Chester Stevenson, Jay Massey, and others that there maybe a rise in interest of people crafting their own gear.
Hoyt Tiburon 55#@28 64in
A&H ACS CX 61#@28in 68in (rip 8/3/14)

lpcjon2

I would do  simple design,Old school Hill style deep dish do it yourself take home quiver job.
Some people live an entire lifetime and wonder if they have ever made a
difference in the world, but the Marines don't have that problem.
—President Ronald Reagan

Stumpkiller

:thumbsup:      :thumbsup:      :thumbsup:  

I think a kit would be outstanding.  Especially one that is semi-customizable with a few options or available (matching) leather if desired.  Like a file pocket or an internal fistmele gauge pocket, spare string bag, etc..  But then I have the (few) tools required as I have done a bunch of muzzleloading and make my own hunting pouches and knife sheaths.  

So offer a simple tool kit, too.     ;)

My first back quiver was a kit that Howard Hill Co. used to offer with latigo lace up the side to close the tube.  Weighed a ton.
Charlie P. }}===]> A.B.C.C.

Bear Kodiak & K. Hunter, D. Palmer Hunter, Ben Pearson Hunter, Wing Presentation II & 4 Red Wing Hunters (LH & 3 RH), Browning Explorer, Cobra II & Wasp, Martin/Howatt Dream Catcher, Root Warrior, Shakespeare Necedah.

Stumpkiller

PS - what this world needs is a deep back quiver of softer leather so that it conforms to the back and keeps the arrows quiet and in place.  Maybe with a sleeved top "customer customizable" from 22" top 24" as desired.  Or a rolled top that could be altered easily.  (That rolled overt top would look good with the unfinished edge and the rough side out for contrast, too!)  It needs to hold no more than 12 arrows and should be very oblong at the base; maybe even curved like a hip-flask.

Look at all the trad archers using arrows longer than 28"

A friend used to have one like that which I lusted after.
Charlie P. }}===]> A.B.C.C.

Bear Kodiak & K. Hunter, D. Palmer Hunter, Ben Pearson Hunter, Wing Presentation II & 4 Red Wing Hunters (LH & 3 RH), Browning Explorer, Cobra II & Wasp, Martin/Howatt Dream Catcher, Root Warrior, Shakespeare Necedah.

Green

"what this world needs is a deep back quiver of softer leather so that it conforms to the back and keeps the arrows quiet and in place."

X2
ASL's, Selfbows, and Wood Arra's
Just because you are passionate about something, doesn't mean you don't suck at it.

Rob DiStefano

for back quivers - yeah, gotta be supple, like howard's.  mebbe two sizes, 20" and 24".  kits are nice options but only if the build is relatively easy and the kit is complete.



personally, back quivers are my last choice, for hunting.

scott toll did a nice article in iam on back quiver design and functionality ...





IAM ~ The only government I trust is my .45-70 & my Ol' Brown Bess

Green

Rob - that leather looks just right....what weight is that?
ASL's, Selfbows, and Wood Arra's
Just because you are passionate about something, doesn't mean you don't suck at it.

Stumpkiller

David,

Here's what I'm thinking would be an ideal back quiver:

   

Probably doubled at the bottom 3" for safety with broadheads.  Otherwise, just the ideal roving, stump shooting and small-game quiver.  Maybe even large-game though I still think my side-quiver is the berries for that.  The rolled top and concho and lace would allow the owner to adjust it to his arrows/preferences.  Most are too short for my tastes.
Charlie P. }}===]> A.B.C.C.

Bear Kodiak & K. Hunter, D. Palmer Hunter, Ben Pearson Hunter, Wing Presentation II & 4 Red Wing Hunters (LH & 3 RH), Browning Explorer, Cobra II & Wasp, Martin/Howatt Dream Catcher, Root Warrior, Shakespeare Necedah.

YORNOC

This is all great.
Charlie, funny that my own personal backquiver is like you've drawn. Flask style bottom, file pocket, but not the rolled top. Its made of soft but very thick bison hide.
Green, there is a 4/5 ounce oil tan readily available that is already somewhat soft. Its great for that application and fairly inexpensive.
I can send you a swatch of it if you'd like to see it.
David M. Conroy

GRINCH

One that you can wear in multiple positions and still secure it in place.
TGMM Family of The Bow,
USN 1973-1995

snow leopard

or---a "stalker"-style quiver. i would think that may not be too complicated. in any event, i would definitely be interested. btw, i like the one in rob's pics-looks as tho that might be a stalker-style, now that i looked at it again.
"the symbol is not the reality"

compton traditional bowhunters
wisconsin traditional archers

Stumpkiller

QuoteOriginally posted by YORNOC:
This is all great.
Charlie, funny that my own personal backquiver is like you've drawn. Flask style bottom, file pocket, but not the rolled top. Its made of soft but very thick bison hide.
Green, there is a 4/5 ounce oil tan readily available that is already somewhat soft. Its great for that application and fairly inexpensive.
I can send you a swatch of it if you'd like to see it.
My favorite hunting bag is made of moose hide.  Like you say - soft but relatively thick and rugged and quiet!.  THAT would be a great quiver I would shell out the scheckels for.
Charlie P. }}===]> A.B.C.C.

Bear Kodiak & K. Hunter, D. Palmer Hunter, Ben Pearson Hunter, Wing Presentation II & 4 Red Wing Hunters (LH & 3 RH), Browning Explorer, Cobra II & Wasp, Martin/Howatt Dream Catcher, Root Warrior, Shakespeare Necedah.

magnus

I think the leather stiffness would depend on the quiver style. Hip and side stalker stiffer leather. Back softer leather. My stalker is stiff and I think it works just fine. If you can offer more options then the better I would think.

Keeping the Faith!
Magnus
Keeping the Faith!
Matt
TGMM Family of the bow
Turkey Flite Traditional  
mwg.trad@yahoo.com

Green

Yornoc - thanks for the offer of the swatch, but no need....got plenty available locally and I'll watch what you end up offering. I might decide on a semi-build my own...pre-punched/patterned maybe.  I've got an American Leathers BQ I've had for 15 years.....still pretty stiff for my liking and the pic of the one Rob posted above looks just right.
ASL's, Selfbows, and Wood Arra's
Just because you are passionate about something, doesn't mean you don't suck at it.

Rob DiStefano

QuoteOriginally posted by Green:
Rob - that leather looks just right....what weight is that?
6oz "pebbled" latigo cow hide.  i usually buy a half or full hide once a year and make up a buncha archery stuff.  :D

the rolled top adds body where it's needed most, the rest of the quiver just collapses to best capture the shafts.
IAM ~ The only government I trust is my .45-70 & my Ol' Brown Bess

Green

"6 oz. pebbled"....thick, but soft...perfect, thanks Rob.
ASL's, Selfbows, and Wood Arra's
Just because you are passionate about something, doesn't mean you don't suck at it.

30coupe

QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
 
QuoteOriginally posted by Green:
Rob - that leather looks just right....what weight is that?
6oz "pebbled" latigo cow hide.  i usually buy a half or full hide once a year and make up a buncha archery stuff.   :D  

the rolled top adds body where it's needed most, the rest of the quiver just collapses to best capture the shafts. [/b]
Sorry to dig up and old post like this, but I was starting to get concerned about the weight of leather. So many have posted that you have to use 8-10 ounce leather...man that stuff is expensive! I was also concerned about how stiff it would be...years of break-in time. Then I relocated this thread. I have already looked at your how-to and was relieved to see you recommended 4-10 ounce leather. I just bought a side on the auction site: 16 square feet of brown pebble grain 5 1/2 to 6 ounce cowhide...about 40 bucks shipped. The 8-10 ounce stuff is about $100 more for a similar sized side. I know I could get more that one quiver out of that, but so can I with the $40 hide!

I plan to roll the top (Hill style) to add some stiffness there and I have some heavy leather scraps around that I will laminate to the bottom layer to keep my Zwickeys from going through the bottom. This weight should quickly conform to my back for a quiet, comfortable quiver. My store bought back quiver (somewhat modified by me) works okay, but I keep finding little things I'd change, so I figure I'll just incorporate those into one I build myself.

Thanks, Rob!
Kanati 58" 44# @ 28" Green glass on a green riser
Bear Kodiak Magnum 52" 45# @ 28"
Bodnik Slick Stick longbow 58" 40# @ 28"
Bodnik Kiowa 52" 45# @ 28"
Kanati 58" 46# @ 28" R.I.P (2007-2015)
Self-made Silk backed Hickory Board bow 67" 49# @ 28"
Bear Black Bear 60" 45# @28"
NRA Life Member

monterey

Glad you brought it back up.  I'd missed it completely in the beginning.

As to kits, here's some of my faltering thoughts.  Many would like to do a kit, but if you offer just a kit without tools to finish it, you will only be selling kits to people who already have tools (like me fer instance).  I would not be a kit buyer because I can do it all just by obtaining the leather.  Your largest buyer group would be people who are new to leather work and would spring for a kit that included all the tools and materials to make the quiver.

That's just my view on it.
Monterey

"I didn't say all that stuff". - Confucius........and Yogi Berra


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