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new bow trouble............

Started by $bowhunter$, December 28, 2010, 05:45:00 PM

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$bowhunter$

.well i was shooting my bow i got for christmas and it seems to constantly shoot right. im not sure if this is something to d with the bow or my arrows. im pretty sure its not me cause i took out my other curve and was drillin the center with it. bow the same pound pull. same arrows. could this dow need diferent arrows? im somewhat new to recurves and am just puzzeld. any advice or oppinions would be nice....

thanks,
steven
"SHOOT STRAIT" - something im still working twards

Jmatt1957

Steven are you right or left handed?

$bowhunter$

"SHOOT STRAIT" - something im still working twards

xtrema312

Too weak of an arrow?  Is your other bow a curve?  Check the center cut on the two bows.
1 Timothy 4:4(NKJV)
For every creature of God is good, and nothing is to be refused if it is received with thanksgiving.

Firefly Long Bow  James 4:14
60" MOAB 54@29 James 1:17

Michigan Longbow Association

dtarbell

You could try a heavier point weight  and turn the brace up a tad.

Night Wing

Are both bows the same brand and model? If it's two diffferent bow models, it might have to do with the shelf. By that I mean if it's cut to center or past center and if past center, how much past center?
Blacktail TD Recurve: 66", 42# @ 30". Arrow: 32", 2212. PW: 75 Grains. AW: 421 Grains. GPP: 10.02
Blacktail TD Recurve: 66", 37# @ 30". Arrow: 32", 2212. PW: 75 Grains. AW: 421 Grains. GPP: 11.37

bendbig

Looks like they have you started in the right direction.
Glenn
TGMM Family of the Bow
PBS Associate


Now then, take your weapons, your quiver and your bow, and go out to the field and hunt game for me, Gen 27:3

wingnut

Might have to build the shelf out a little or go to a stiffer arrow.  Sounds like the new bow has more guts then the old one.

Mike
Mike Westvang

dtarbell

Yup Wingnut,after 30 yrs.I still manage to get it backwards  :confused:

Cherokee Scout

Follow Wingnut's suggestion or try a lighter point weight.
John

30coupe

The easiest/cheapest fix is the one Mike suggested. Build out the sideplate a bit. I've had to do that on some bows too.
Kanati 58" 44# @ 28" Green glass on a green riser
Bear Kodiak Magnum 52" 45# @ 28"
Bodnik Slick Stick longbow 58" 40# @ 28"
Bodnik Kiowa 52" 45# @ 28"
Kanati 58" 46# @ 28" R.I.P (2007-2015)
Self-made Silk backed Hickory Board bow 67" 49# @ 28"
Bear Black Bear 60" 45# @28"
NRA Life Member

$bowhunter$

yes both bows are curves. 1 waas a pearson from 1966 the other is a new samick t/d. im not sure if either are center cut or not. ill try to build the plate out. how should i do this? ill switch the heads up to. thanks,
steven
"SHOOT STRAIT" - something im still working twards

30coupe

Whatever you do, do one thing at a time. Changing heads and sideplate might be too much of a good thing.

Chances are your new bow has more zip than the old one. Pearson's were pretty nice bows, but not overly fast.

If you have a leather strike plate, carefully peel it up from front to back. Slip a strip of leather or a paper match stick behind it. Try to get it directly over the deepest part of the grip. Start thin and build slowly. It won't take much, most likely. The strike plate should stick back down enough to take some shots. Once you get it where you want it, use Barge cement or any good contact cement to reglue the strike plate.
Kanati 58" 44# @ 28" Green glass on a green riser
Bear Kodiak Magnum 52" 45# @ 28"
Bodnik Slick Stick longbow 58" 40# @ 28"
Bodnik Kiowa 52" 45# @ 28"
Kanati 58" 46# @ 28" R.I.P (2007-2015)
Self-made Silk backed Hickory Board bow 67" 49# @ 28"
Bear Black Bear 60" 45# @28"
NRA Life Member


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