Snake skins on a bow look good, but what kind of life span is realistic and what kind of care is needed? Never had a bow with them. Looking at one and just need some feedback.

Copperheads are fragile. Rattlers are tougher. Will last a long time unless you throw them down from the tree stand or whack briers, wounded rabbits and charging hogs - like some of us do.

Last a long time if properly applied. Myself, they have lasted 15+ years and going strong. From a bowyer that can install them on the form while building them? Probably forever!
All depends on finish, I use a quality mink oil blend (montana pitch blend is great)instead of a sprayed on finish. I oil them whenever I do my boots and leather goods and all is great and happy in the world. If they begin to dry out and peel at the edges, a bit of super glue will cure that quick. Then go back to oiling.
I'm a snakeskin junkie and have applied them to just over 100 bows now. As Shaun said, snakes are quite a bit different from one species to another...some thin and fragile, some like applying slabs of leather. But hey, its another whole avenue to explore and dig into in trad archery. Fun!  I've purchased snakes that have died from snake sellers and pet shops. Skin them, tan or dry and you can have a bow that most guys have never seen.  I had to get a class 6 dealers license here in Ma. to buy them...but worth it. If you mess up, hey, I guess you are just going to have to put another cool looking set on!

I'm getting ready to do my first skins. Got a beautiful 64' Bull Snake that is drying now. It should look awesome on my 2pc Bama Hunter LB. I also have a nice pair of Rattler skins that are going on a Howatt Hi-Speed, and I'm looking for something nice for the limbs of my Pronghorn 3pc. I'll be following the Skin-A-Long in the How-To forum.

So the skin isn't like a wood veneer and placed under clear glass?

How do you keep the wife from beating the phooey out of your bow with a rake, or worse a hoe, if you lay it down?

I just bought my first Diamondback-skinned longbow. Super cool. Natural camo........I was wondering the same thing about the durability of mine.

A bowyer can put it in like a veneer. But greenhorns like myself who know nothing of building bows can apply them just fine over the glass. The biggest key to adhering is make sure NO finish is on the limb. It causes the biggest problems, sand or strip finish of limb faces, when clean and dry apply your skins. Be careful if you use paint stripper, it can damage the glass.
A snake is the LEAST of my wife's worries. I've got a 13 year old and a 7 year old. Every kid in the neighborhood comes to our house to hang out. They bring everything home.   We've even had live baby skunks brought in that the boys found, a cat had got them initially, but we ended up with them. She would rather deal with the snakeskins!

I think that I would talk to Mr.Mike Yancey @ Pinehollw longbows.A wealth of knowledge and snakeskin pro!Good Guy,as well.

The How-To uses Super Glue (CA) over the skins. It fills the voids in the skin, and I suppose makes it look like it's under glass. That's how I'm going to do it, so I guess I'll find out soon enough.

I always feel about skins like I do about panelling in a house.. Look great, just always wonder what is under it.

They're just another veneer (over the glass). If properly applied to the existing surface they'll outlast whatever finish you put over them.

Pretty sure no bowyer puts them under the glass due to contact issues.  Any bow I have ever seen done profesionally or otherwise have been on top of the glass.  I have done quite a few and it is really not tough at all and if you use a good poly finish they will last as long as the bow.  
Bob Urban

I skinned my Palmer last year, wasn't too difficult even for me! Only problem I encountered was after I glued the skins on and let them dry, it was looking great- until I put super glue on top of them. Maybe the humidity was too high (?) but they turned white. Ended up melting the super glue off with acetone, then spraying on my finish. Didn't turn out to bad though. If I were to do another, I'd skip the super glue myself.

I skinned my predator and it was my first ever. I just ruffed up the glass and applied the skins, afterwards I applied a couple coats of tru-oil letting it dry good then overspraying with polyuretyane. Looks Great and have had no problems. I admit though that I like it so much that I pay particular attention in how I lay it down an such  

Good lord, there is no need to put super glue OVER the skins. That is far from necessary. Too many other products/oils/sprays that are better, cheaper and easier to apply. I'm sure it works, but there are way too many better things out there.

I was following the "How-to" on this site about the super glue finish. There was no warning of the chance of that happening. But I salvaged it.

Everybody has to live and learn right kwik?  At least we all get to benefit here from each others experiences, good and bad.

I used the super glue method, furned out great. Nice and shiney. Then applied some true oil over that.Loved the finnish.

I've got diamond head on my bows and they last a long long time