i found some easton blues exstriemly cheap and am debating on buying them. has any1 ever tried the easton blue arrow shaft?

I shot X7's a few years. They were very good arrows although mine were quite thin-walled and easy to bend.

I have a half-dozen 1916 Easton blues I shoot regularly out of one of my bows.  Also had some of the purple Easton jazz arrows, but I bent a few of them.  I haven't bent the blues yet (since I've only had 'em for a short while), but the jazz seemed to bend much easier than the XX75 2016s (of which I've also bent a few).

I'd get another set of blues if I could find them for a decent price again.

what spine would i need for a #50 recurve? they have xx75 1916 and xx75 1716. im not very knowlageable on the whole spine for easton arrows

I've shot 1716,1816 blues for some time. Never had a problem with them. For a 50# recurve I would probably start with a 2016. Refer to Stu Millers Calculator for a good starting point. Ed Q, look at Bowhunter Supply center or Lancaster archery. They have them.

they only have a 1916 do you think that would be good enough to work wwith 50#? im not looking for tackdriving accuracy just some cheap arrows i can flig at some ducks. they do have screw in tips correct?

In the late 70"s early 80"s the x7 was eastons target shaft. I used to shoot them. Alittle harder alloy than the hunting shafts,like the xx75,and gamegetter.
Burt

QuoteOriginally posted by $bowhunter$:
they only have a 1916 do you think that would be good enough to work wwith 50#? im not looking for tackdriving accuracy just some cheap arrows i can flig at some ducks. they do have screw in tips correct?

I'm still a relative newbie, so I'm still learning, but from what I understand, it's safer to go with a slightly stiffer spine than with a weaker spine for the most part.  Only thing is, if you go with too stiff of a spine, the arrow won't shoot as well.

Anyway, do a google search for Stu Miller's calculator.  I've never tried it myself due to my computer being so old it won't work on it, but I've heard good things about it.  It should help you determine the proper spine arrow.

Also, go to Easton's website and look up their arrow selection chart.  That should also give you a starting point on what kind of arrow (spine and weight) will work depending on your bow (longbow or recurve), draw weight and length of arrow.

You can also call 3Rivers Archery (one of the sponsors on this site) and ask them for help.  They should be able to get you in the right direction depending on the info you give them (type of bow, draw weight, draw length and arrow length).  They also sell a test kit of various different spined arrows so you can try and see which ones shoot best.

As for the screw-in inserts, some vendors sell them with the screw-in inserts installed and some don't.  If they don't, you can glue them in yourself.  I got my 1916 blues online (think it was amazon) cut to length with inserts and field points installed, so that was a plus.

I just did them and they probably will shoot fine for what you want.  A 2016 is a better match though.  You didn't give any specs on the bow or your arrow lenght though.  Assuming recurve, B50 string, center cut, 5" feathers, 125 gr. head, 29" arrow.

I shoot Blues all the time. They are inexpensive, tough, swaged nocks, and plentiful. I have 3 dozen to make up right now.

I also use Legacy's and honestly, I can't tell the difference except for the price and color. They fly the same and take the same beating.

I use 1916's in all five of my bows ranging in weight from 40-48#. My son-in-law shoots 2016's from his 50# recurve.

For shafts around $30/doz you can't go wrong.

yea i think i might get some blues. and possibly some of the cheap walmart carbons
thanks,
steven

QuoteOriginally posted by $bowhunter$:
yea i think i might get some blues. and possibly some of the cheap walmart carbons
thanks,
steven

Man, those "cheap" Carbon Xpress carbons are pretty dang nice. I have some Rebel Lite's and love them, they are consistent and tough.