Hi,

i tried some new arrows, they were fletched but seemed theoratically good for my setup (though stus calc is way off, but it was way off on my last setup,too)

So i shot 3 of em with Broadheads and 3 with fieldtips several times.
Both group good together @20 yards and flew perfect. In fact the Broadheads hit even a bit more excact as the field points.

you think im good to go or would you go through the process of defletching three arrows and doing a bareshaft test?

Thanks Guys!
Regards

Axel


BTW, heres the arrow and bow specs:
bow:
62" Signature TD LB 56@29,5"; +1/8; 14strand XCel;

arrow:
Beman MFX Classic 340; 30,25" 125grn tip + 75 grn insert; front footing 1,5" (15grn); end footing 0,5" (5 grn); 4x4"fletch RH;

Axel, why mess with perfection?

If your happy with the results why bareshaft.

Bareshafting isn't necassary. Once fletched your bow probably shoots spines and weights of arrows. Why go through the hassle if what you have is working.

Center Cut is a very important number when using Stu's Calculator.  

Axel
I believe you may be using an incorrect center cut for your calculations unless you have built out your side plate 5/16"

I called Bob Lee Archery this morning and they said the center cut for the Bob Lee Signature riser is 3/16 past center or -3/16 for use in Stu's calculator.

Using Stu's calculator,your specs and adjusting for the -3/16 center cut I got a very good match using a center cut of -1/8 inch. Throw in a few extra g for the 4th feather and I came up with a dynamic spine difference of 1.2 lb.  


Anyone interested in the calculator can download it here    Stu\\'s Calculator .  I would suggest you also download the directions which are in PDF and save them for reference.

Regards

Les Heilakka

If they fly right, no problem.  I have never personally bare shafted an arrow in my life and I've been shooting recurves and longbows for about 50 years.  It isn't necessary.

metsastaja,

if the center cut Bob Lee told you is right then both setups are in the ball park again!
Damn! I meassured it myself but wasnt to sure about how to meassure it. Seems i made a mistake thereby!

Thanks alot! Thats an eye opener for sure!

QuoteOriginally posted by David Mitchell:
I have never personally bare shafted an arrow in my life and I've been shooting recurves and longbows for about 50 years.  It isn't necessary.

Me either!  I don't get the bareshaft thingy. I guess some guys just like to tinker....

quote:
------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by David Mitchell:
I have never personally bare shafted an arrow in my life and I've been shooting recurves and longbows for about 50 years. It isn't necessary.
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Me three Biggie and Les

I tune with broadheads.  If broadheads and field points group together, I'm done and it sounds like you are also!

If it ain't broke.......

I bareshaft all the time; but that does not mean you should. There is no right or wrong-it is like a religion.

QuoteOriginally posted by Bowwild:
I tune with broadheads.  If broadheads and field points group together, I'm done and it sounds like you are also!

That works for me too.

You are good to go!!!!!!!!

Bareshafting will let you know.

Tuning with BH's let's you know for sure

I'm really into bareshafting but if I shoot a fletched arrow with a broadhead and it flys perfect then walla thats the end result!!  

but I've noticed bareshafting really comes into play if you may encounter rain and  your fletch gets wet,, bareshaft tuned arrows will fly with wet fletch, missing a fletch and I have shot them with only 1 fletch on a 3D to prove a point,, does everyone need to do this NO but if you have the means and you want it perfect then YES,,,,,,,, I was one of those guys who patterned my shotguns for the best birdshot loads so maybe I'm a little on the perculier side IDK..

In the final stage of broadhead tuning i always wet the feathers down and see what happens to avoid this. They were flying a bit more unstable but not bad and they were still hitting where they should be.

I guess i leave em like they are! Thanks guys much apreciated

Like most have said, if you bareshaft first, the final test is to shoot broadheads and field points together. If they group the same, you're done.

Traditional archery can really be pretty simple. Match up a basic bow to some good arrows and you can be pretty darned accurate.  That being said, a lot of guys like to tinker and be a little more involved with the process, thus bareshafting, looking at FOC, ect., ect.  Back in the late 70's and early 80's our method was to shoot the field points on our tapered shafting from Kustom King Arrows and then to mount the Zwickey Delta 2 blade heads. If they flew like the field points we sharpened them and went hunting.

Ray good point,,,, because I think people who shoot lighter/slower bows experience shooting broadheads differently than people who shoot heavy & fast bows..

I shoot around 50# bows and usually 10gr per inch arrow weights and I find that once i bareshaft an arrow I can shoot any broadhead i want from 2" wide treesharks to Magnus bullheads as long as its mounted straight.  BUT I think I couldn't pull this off if I shot close to 200FPS or faster or even maybe a lighter arrow..

I bareshaft so that I get an arrow close enough to be correctable when I shoot broadheads.

If yours do well with broadheads on, you just skipped over a step.  You ended up in the right place.

Chuck Adams,is well know for being a fanatic about fine tuning;he has always prefered the BHs tuning over bare shaft and this is with a compound bow.I bare shaft and at the end I NEED to double check with the BHs since this is what we use on games.The final score is almost the same but the bare shaft test is much more sensitive and difficult to acheive.Remember when bare shafting you need to add the weight for the fletching.