When establishing a "nock point" it seems that some folks relay different ways of stating "from square",,"above shaft"..etc. When determing nock point,,how does one measure using a square? From the shelf??

,,, I don't use a square. I just eye it square (off shelf..or hand if no shelf) go about a bit high and shoot it. most the times its right on. Sometimes I adjust a bit. Maybe I have the feel ..been at it so long...!  Also I shoot three fingers under. Think that makes a differents. I use a metal nock set (not to tight on string)to get it right then after I'm sure...I mark the remove set and tie one on.

Yes shelf.

I should have mentioned I shoot "split". Thanks fellas...

My eyeball still works pretty well for me..lol

I seldom put a bow square on any more. Like Jeff I've been at this for... well a while so I just tie on a piece of string or use masking tape that I can move if needed until I get the "sweet" spot.

God bless,Mudd

Yup, don't use a square much either.  It is quicker and easier just to eyeball it because there is no "set" hight that all bow shoot best at.

Thanks guys. I was curious as to what different posts were stating on nock height. IE,,some stated 3/8 - 5/8. Just wondered where they were measuring from.

I just acquired a '68 Kodiak Mag 43# @ 28 in pristine condition and am attempting to tune it.

i use a square and i measure from the shelf.

Yes, either way you are going to adjust the heigth afterwards for the best flight. I do better by starting close to where my previous nock points have been, so I do measure to when I start.

All are right on this post. Even after 45 years I still use a bow square. If shooting from the shelf just lay the square on the shelf as if it were the arrow.  The "book" on shooting with fingers is to "start" a 3/8" or 1/2" above level.  I start at 1/2".  Then of course as part of your tuning process you'll have to deterine if the nock locator needs to be moved.

I nock the arrow and use a credit card and put one edge on the string so it is parallel( and touching) and bring it and the arrow so the top edge of the card is horizontal with the arrow( it will give you a 90 degree angle from the string).I make a mark and start from that point with my adjustments.And I serve my nock points in.

I'm also an "Eyeballer" of course it's kinda difficult when your crosseyed and your eyes are too close together....    
I also shoot with 2 fingers under cause I'm missing my third and fourth fingers........Naw I'm just kidding. I've got all my digits and my eyes are fine.    
Hope I didn't offend anybody? I was making fun of myself.   :rolleyes:      

Seriously, I have never used a bow square. I can get it close enough by just using the arrow nocked onto the string and eyeballing it 90deg. or level. Then I lightly crimp a brass nock on the string and go from there.
One thing that will help and I use them all the time on every one of my bows is illiminator buttons. The little rubber deals that you thread onto your string and I usually keep 3 or 4 below my nock point on my string so when one of them breaks I just slide another one up. I use one as a cushion under my arrow nock so I don't pinch the nock when I draw.
I have also found that you can actually slide 2 or 3 or 4 illiminator buttons up under the arrow nock and use them as guides for string walking longer yardages, it works well but I'm not a master of it. It's just something I've been playing around with. It allows you to point the arrow tip directly at the target at all different yardages depending on where my fingers are on the string.

Just remember to make small adjustment when tuning a bow becuase sometimes it only takes a 1/16 or 1/8 inch to make a big difference in arrow flight.
Good Luck!

Hard to make a mistake when the NP must be moved anyway for tuning purposes. Like a few above, I reference from the zero position w/my t-square. I'm now confident 3/8" up is perfect for my shooting preference. The square just makes it faster. BTW, before you tie a string nock, make sure the stretch is out of the string. Or, you'll need to reposition it after. Brace height is also a factor.

I don't mean to be disagreeable. However, Straiera's point about string stretch seems reasonable but I've experienced something different.  I reckon my strings stretch very uniformly along the full length because I've never had to relocate my nocking point because of string stretch. Surely it could happen though and maybe I'll have to pay closer attention.

All good stuff! Thanks fellas!