Orderd Carbons now scared!

MSwickard · August 25, 2010, 06:55:00 PM

Just some additional info. I use the 55/75 in a 53@28 Griffin. My draw length is 28.5, so I'm close to 55lbs. I have these arrow loaded with 50 gr brass insert and they will shoot either a 235 or 285 grain head. The arrow is 29.5" groove to BOP, w 3-5" fletch. Arrow weights are 580 gr 23%Foc and 630 gr, 25% Foc.

I think you will be able to use 55/75 at around 30-31" BOP and load the front up. Really depends on how heavy of an arrow you want. Either will work.

Mike

bentpole · August 25, 2010, 07:07:00 PM

35/55 absolutely. Cut them 29"s and put around 145 Gn up front. bentpole

Old York · August 25, 2010, 07:11:00 PM

I vote 50/50.

John3 · August 25, 2010, 07:11:00 PM

3555's will work fine... Use the brass weight inserts to tune them to your bow.. You may need to add 3/16" poly rope in the shafts to add weight.. Easy, cheap and will not mess with the spine.. Matter of fact tune your new arrows with the poly installed...

John III

Plumber · August 25, 2010, 07:14:00 PM

35/55 make sure he dose not cut them .work with only 1 arrow. inserts/ different point weights use hot melt glue. until you got the right insert/point combo.then cut the rest.if they dont work its much easier to sell 11 good ones then 12 cut.take your time dont settle for marginal flight.good luck

bentpole · August 25, 2010, 07:16:00 PM

TroutGuide · September 10, 2010, 12:39:00 AM

Well 3555 it is. The 5577 just would not bare shaft so I went to another shop as I am visiting my family at the moment and got 6 3555. They fly great at 30" with 200 up front. I think I will try to sell the 5575 on the forum. They are 30.5" with 3 5" Rwing. Admin. I think I need permission to post in the classifieds as I don't have enough posts yet.
Brian

joekeith · September 10, 2010, 01:05:00 AM

You want the 35/55..............a little late eh?

TroutGuide · September 10, 2010, 01:19:00 AM

Yes Joe that is what I got. The 5575 will not work and that is why I now intend to sell them when I get approval from the admin.

Thanks for all your help here guys. I knew I should have asked before I leaped.
Lesson learned!
Brian

Gil · September 10, 2010, 05:18:00 AM

Brian, I think the 100 post rule is for bows only.
Gil

Shawn Leonard · September 10, 2010, 05:26:00 AM

Even the 35/55 with 175 up front will be stiff out of that Root even full length. I would leave them long and try 250 up front and work your way down in length until they fly perfect! Shawn

champ38 · September 10, 2010, 06:47:00 AM

Go with 3555, you can still load up the front, just build out the side plate.

rick7 · September 10, 2010, 12:02:00 PM

35/55

bridog · September 10, 2010, 05:20:00 PM

I shoot a 48lb @28.5" check mate recurve that is 1/16" lt of center (rt handed)at the rest. Shooting the 15/35 full length with 175 gr heads bare shafted like a dart. I had .500 axis arrows (same spine as a 35/55) that I had 30.5" and could not get bare shafts to fly decent with 300 grains up front. My experience with longbow and recurve is that the charts are WAY over spined for carbon arrows. But maybe it's just me. A bare shaft will tell you alot in my opinion. Just to see what point weight did to me I went from 250 all the way down to 85 gr tips. They walked left the lighter I went and rt the heavier I went. Just like they were supposed to.

I was really suprised that I needed that weak of a spine. With fletching on I thought my axis arrow flew great with 200 gr upfront, but once I started bare shafting I was way wrong.

I had bought the 15/35 for my daughters bow and on a whim tried them with mine. I thought I would of had to cut them down a few inches and have a light tip. But when I started bare shafting it told the story.

I am just under 10gpi so they are doable for a hunting arrow. I wish they were heavier, but they fly great with broadheads (woodsmans). So I'm sold on them. And from a distance they look good - funny most Non-trad guys don't even realize their carbon:)..

Just my experience...

Bridog

traditional beagle · September 10, 2010, 06:42:00 PM

35/55 with 50 grain brass insert, full length of 30 1/2" should do well

AdamH · September 10, 2010, 07:22:00 PM

Now next time, try the CX Heritage Shaft, much more forgiving arra, and all around better IMHO, Good Luck to ya ....

Ronyag · September 10, 2010, 08:04:00 PM

I use GT 35/55 cut to 29.5" with 145 grains up front, 5" shield feathers. They fly great. My total weight is 433 grains with a F.O.C. of 16.2% and 37.4 lb of energy. Bow is 50 @ 28" I pull 28". They are a little low on weight but good enough for deer. I will go to 525 grains when hunting bigger game.

xtrema312 · September 10, 2010, 08:21:00 PM

You will see a wide range of recommendation for carbon. You don't see that with wood or aluminum much. Carbon is a different animal. The fast reaction of carbon and HFOC required to weight the arrow to make it safe to shoot in trad bows makes them often bare shaft well at shorter ranges because the heavy point is hard for the shaft to pull off line. It is like a dart. Personal form goes a long way in determining what will work even after taking into account all the other data.

I have found I can shoot a lot stiffer arrow than I was. One day I got thinking that my arrows always hit weak or about on, but almost never have I gotten them to really plain stiff. I also was having some problem with shelf edge rub, which I just couldn't figure out. 40 yd. bare shafting showed me what that shaft does when given time to wobble around, and over correct. Still hits about the same place, but obviously the arrow is not ideal. Does it matter much for hunting at 20 yd? Probably not much, because like a dart, as soon as you add the feathers the light spine HFOC arrow will correct in a reasonable distance. However, if you want an arrow that sets up nice and straight fast, looses minimal speed, and will shoot bullet holes in paper at 12', you need to stiffen them up. I found I could getter much better paper tune and way less or now shelf edge contact with the stiffer arrows.

I would go 35/55, but I think the 55/75 will work also. I was able to shoot 5575 in a 46#@28" cut to center recurve just fine, but they heavy and the bow was a good performer with FF string. You will probably get a real good all around arrow at a nice length with the 3555 with 10 gpp. Probably even be able to use standard inserts, but it will not be upper end of 500 gr. tuned the way I like a bare shaft to fly. With the 5575 I would start full length and work down, but I can get it with about a 29-30" arrow, 100 gr. insert and 175 gr. head. For you heavier heads may be needed or a longer arrow, but I think that is in the ball park depending on all those personal variables.

I have also found a real difference between inserts in some cases and in others no difference. If I use aluminum insert and a heavier head I get a lot weaker arrow than a lighter head and heavy insert if both combinations are the same weight. Moving the weight forward, even if the insert length is the same, has a very noticeable affect for me. I also have found very little difference between 100 and 50 gr. brass inserts. 50 gr. is a lot, but the a 50 is also shorter than the 100. The flexing shaft length change and weight change kind of balances things out reasonable close for me. Now I use the one that weights the arrow the way I want.

September 19, 2010, 04:38:00 PM

I can't tell you without actually trying different stuff but here is what I shoot. I use 30 1/2" Gold Tip 55/75 XT Hunter shafts (black) with a 100gr brass insert and 150gr point. Total arrow weight is 516gr which equals 10.3 gpp. I don't remember exactly but think this puts me at about 20-21% FOC. Anyway, they tune up perfect for my 50# @ my draw length Sarrels Blueridge takedown longbow.

Bisch

S.C. Hunter · September 19, 2010, 07:36:00 PM

3555 should be fine if you are going to tune starting at full length. I shoot 5575 from bows that are 54# 60# and 60# with 175 grain points with weight behind the insert cut to 29.5". They fly great for me.