I recently started using a KME sharpener and a 2 sided Norton wetstone and i love it! I can get a good edge with some heads(old bear razorhead, Zwickey, Ace) with this combo, but seem to struggle with the higher rockwell hardness heads like a STOS or Eclipse! It seems to me that maybe the more modern heads are too hard to get a good edge with a stone! Am i right about this? I was looking at the Montec Diamond Hone for sharpening, has anyone ever used it with a KME? It is a dual grit(600/1200) diamond sharpener that looks like it may be the answer im looking for! Im trying to get my STOS heads sharper than i currently can with a stone, as im taking them into the CO mountains for elk this fall!

I have the knife sharpener with diamond stones and have no problems with stos or other 50 rockwell heads. razorblades baby, razorblades      

I was going to post a new topic but this may draw the answer I'm looking for. Who ccarries a paper wheel for a grinder?

NC Recurveman,
 Alaska Bowhunting Supply has the paper wheel and a complete package set up if you need it.

Minnesota,

Call Ron at KME for his advice.  He is a great guy and can tell you all you need to know about sharpening or stones.  He carries single and double sided diamond stones - support our sponsers.  He can sharpen Grizzlies to split hairs and they are harder steel than Eclipse or STOS.  (800) 561-4339

Travis,

It's not the rockwell hardness of heads like STOS, Grizzly, or Zwicky heads that makes them more difficult to sharpen... It's the amount of steel that needs to be removed on the initial "out of the pack" sharpening. You'll need to start these heads with something much more aggressive than the old Norton. An 6x2 x-coarse diamond stone would be a good choice.  the G5 is a bit small and its not very coarse. I prefer 100 grit wet/dry sandpaper on a piece of glass or tile for heavy stock removal/initial bevel setting. You could also quickly rough in the bevels with a file, then finish up on the Norton. Let us know how you make out.

Thanks for the kind words everyone. BTW, we've replaced the Norton (now made in Mexico) with 2 individual grit stones that are made in the USA for us. The new stones are more aggressive than the Norton and are the very best stones I've ever used. Incidently they work amazing well on three blade heads too.

Ron

Ron,

Do you glue the wet/dry sandpaper down on the glass before using it or is it loose?

mnbearbaiter,

Like Ron(Sharpster) said you need to start out with something a bit coarser.  Below is a finished out Grizzly El Grande I just recently did.  I use a series of DMT diamond hones (XXCoarse-XXFine) and then finish up with an 8000 grit Norton water stone and finally finish up with a 12000 grit Naniwa Super Stone.

Look closely.....you can read the newspaper print in the reflection on the bevel

 

You can see my fingers holding the camera in this picture


This BH is scapel sharp and ready to slip through an elk    

Brett

Steertalker,that's mighty impressive.I just started using the DMT's myself.I'm waiting on the XX Coarse to show up today.I think that will cut out a lot of time,establishing the initial bevel.

Hi Pete, not sure how Ron does it, but I don't glue my wet/dry sandpaper to the glass.  I apply it with water.  The water holds it in place for me just fine and it eliminates little bumps that you might get if you didn't apply a perfect film of glue.

QuoteOriginally posted by StanM:
Hi Pete, not sure how Ron does it, but I don't glue my wet/dry sandpaper to the glass.  I apply it with water.  The water holds it in place for me just fine and it eliminates little bumps that you might get if you didn't apply a perfect film of glue.

Yup, just soak the paper and it will "bond" to the glass pretty well. I will sometimes wrap one end of the paper around and under the edge of the glass too.

Hey Steertalker, very nice job on the grizz!!!!    

Ron

Thanks Ron and Steerstalker, I'll get some and try it out.  SS - that is beautiful edge.

Geeeeezzzzz....I forgot to mention the most important point and that is......I used a KME BH sharpener.

Thanks Ron!!!!!!!!!!  :D

Brett

I assumed that Brett.  Almost impossible to get an edge like that without some kind of fixture and the KME is the best out there.  Question though:  When you draw a burr do just let it go until it falls off by itself as it gets thinner and thinner or do you flip the head over and manually take the burr off?

Ron(Sharpster) is the one to ask that question but it is my understand that you never ever "manually" take the burr off.  You work the hones and let them do the work; a few forward strokes on the bevel side then a few forward strokes on the flat side....using only very light pressure; back and forth between bevel side and flat side until the burr is gone.  When you are close you may only need to make one light stroke per side to get it juuuuuuuust right.  Finally...strope it on a piece of notebook paper and, baby, I promise you...you don't know what sharp is until you do it like that.

The key is managing the proper pressure as you progress through the hones.

Brett

I did some looking on the KME website and saw the various DMT hones that they sell! To be honest im not sure which ones to use! They sell a couple of dual sided hones(x course/course and course/medium i believe), as well as just straight grit hones! Any recommendations? I just started toying around with the STOS, but i also am a fan of Snuffers, Magnus I, and Ace to name a few! Im really interested in trying the Tusker heads as well, im assuming i would want to use the x course diamond hone to set the bevels as the recommended sharpening method involves a file! Can i still incorporate my fine Norton stones to hone the edge on a broadhead after ive used the diamond hones?