Is there any way to lower the draw weight of a glass laminated recurve without damaging it? A buddy of mine did the classic, buy a bow that has to much draw  weight thing. He would like it if he could find a way to lower the draw weight 5-10lbs. The bow cost him $500 and he would much rather not eat the loss from selling it.

he'll have to send it to a reputable boyer who is willing to do that 5 # is usually the limit.

Typically 5 to 6# is all you are going to get and with a 500 dollar bow it is not a DIY project. If your friend says he needs 5-10 he likely needs 10. Suggest he sell the bow and buy what he needs and don't forget whatcha' learned. JMHO      

Not without bad form or shaving down the limbs.  The most cost effective way would probably be to buy a stretch band to work on form and use the bow to condition up to be able to shoot it.  Do what is called 'specific physical training'.  Draw the bow back and hold as long as you can.  Rest for twice as long as you held it then repeat.  Example, if you pull back (as far as you can and whatever's comfortable) and hold for 5 seconds, let down, rest for 10 seconds, and repeat.

It usually costs about $150 plus shipping both ways to send the bow off to have them shave off some weight..  And how much weight they can take off depends on how much sanding they had to do to get it to target weight & tiller to begin with. Most bowyers worth their salt keep records of the bows they make and sell. I would start by calling him first to see if he can take off any weight ??? But, please note you are going to go another $200 in the hole to do it???
  I would, if it was me and not a special bow? Sell it and suck up the loss?? Then get one 15#'s lighter.... I've had a hundred  bows.  Some that were to heavey that I just could not shoot at all.... And I have had dozens that I thought were to light for me. But I could still shoot them fairly well.

Unless he has some limitations or has been at this a long time and can't see going up in weight, tell him to buy one used 10# lighter to shoot a while then sell or trade for one 5# lighter to shoot or a while.  Then work into the new bow.   Or trade it or sell it.  I would not want a bow that was shaved down 10# and would not want to pay to have one reduced 5# and then find it was still to heavy.  It would be faster, and maybe cheaper to just trade it sell it.  I had a bow a couple years ago that was to heavy for me so I sold it.  Now I shoot 2-3# more than that everyday and a lot of arrows.  That was a great bow and a hard one to replace.  I am kicking myself now for not keeping it.

I just sent a bow I bought new in 2004 back to the bowyer to reduce the weight by 5-6 pounds. It will cost me $140 for draw weight reduction, change tiller to 3-finger, and add a "motto" under my name.  The $140 includes return shipping -- I also paid $13 to ship it. So, I'll have $150 in the deal.  However, I had already typed up the "For Sale" offer on this Widow PSAIII because the bow hadn't been out of my house for 6 years because it was uncomfortable for me and made it more difficult to adhere to proper form. An overweight bow is a killer of form and when form goes to pot, the joy of archery is endangered and maybe physical injury will occur. The building up exercises worked for me when I was in my twenties and thirties. It doesn't work for me in my fifties. In fact, I'm amazed at how quickly I lose my "tone" if I lay the bow down or shoot one of my bows that is 5-7 pounds lighter.  If your friend thinks the weight needs to be closer to 10 pounds, I'd move the bow or at least the limbs (if a TD).  While sitting on the floor if he can't draw the bow to anchor without rasing the bow arm above parrallel to the floor he is over-bowed (yep, have to cant the bow pretty hard to draw while sitting).

I would try to trade it if he doesn't want to work up to the weight. That's the great thing about this sport and site...always alot of trading going on.

I reduce draw weights all the time for people. It is important to keep your eye on what the limbs are telling you and to only go as far as the material will stand. The 10% rule is good to follow,meaning a 50# bow will give up 5#, but some bows will give more,some less. As said above,a reduction is not the only option but I feel it is a good one as the bow can have other work done at the same time(grip,shelf,tips,tiller)and will look like new when finished. just somethings to consider. good luck to you and your pal.
Chuck

Contact a good bowyer. They can usually do it for a reasonable price.

Tom

I agree with Chuck (Two Tracks)  10% is a good guideline, sometimes a bit more, sometimes less.  

From a pure dollars and cents standpoint, if the bow is in excellent condition and you can sell it as is, and replace it with a similar bow of the weight you want, it would be cheaper that way.  But as Chuck said, other work can be done at the same time, so if the bow needs an update anyway weight reduction makes more sense.  Also of course, if it is a bow that has some personal history or attachment, you might really consider a weight reduction and get it back to the point where you can shoot it again.

If you take a bow down 10%, do you lose any efficency from what the bow was originaly designed for? Ken

Not that I have seen Ken, I get alot of customers that say they think the bow shoots better. I think this can be because they can now handle the bows weight, and they are shooting with more comfort. If a bow has gone a little bit out of tiller or has other issues from the contruction, then the problems can be sorted out and the bow will now shoot proper. I have reduced many bows and have shot them all, not one has suffered from the work, If you know what to look for and go slow it can give you a bow to shoot that was destined for the rack or the sale table.
Thanks.
Chuck

Exactly.  
Short drawing a bow that is too much for you to comfortably handle will not get the maximum performance from that bow.  Watch a guy on the shooting line that is overbowed.  He will not reach full draw and can't get his back muscles into it.  Although the marked weight on the bow might be XX# @ YY", if he is only drawing an inch or two short of that, he is not getting the potential out of the bow.  

Get the weight down where you are comfortable and can actually reach full extension on the draw and you can improve performance and accuracy, even with a lighter weight.