I have a new recurve that's #50 at my 29" draw. My issue is that I can only get good arrow flight with a full length 1916 and 300 grains up front. I know what you're saying, the answer is that it's no where near cut to center. I really don't want to have to go to 300 so I was wondering if an 1816 with 250 (the weight I normally use) would work or might I need to drop that down to 200? Or would the 1816 be too weak for anthing near that heavy?

Does anyone make a .700 carbon shaft that's tough enough to use for hnting and won't break the bank?

thanks to any and all,

try a 2117 my bow is 52# and man they scream

ya i agree 2117should be right

Maybe I wasn't clear before, I already tried my stiffer shafts (2117, Gt35/55 and so on) The issue is they are too stiff since the bow isn't cut to center and are hitting way left (right handed shooter). Even my full length 1916 with 250 up front was a little stiff and with 300 it's just about right, I'd just rather not have to shoot such a heavy arrow and head set up if I don't have to.

if You could get a few 1816's try, They should work for you.

I've been using 2016's up to 55# with 200grains up front,they fly great .At your draw length they should fly real nice.

Try Jack Howard's favorite arrow....2114. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.          
If you don't have any and want to try a few, send me your address in a PM. I'll send you some.
Danny

There are now CE Predator II's in .700 and .800 available.  We have a few made into arrows but we don't have them on the site as there's a back order issue with the inserts.

Standard screw in points glue right in them though, most fit like a glove.

We hope to have them fully stocked and on the site soon.

What kind of $ might we be looking at on those CE Predators?

Ever hear of a false positive???  I think your shootin' 'em, brother.  I have a bow that I can shoot 600, 500 and 400.  THe .600 has to be a FP with a 200 gr pt.  It's actually too light in the  grs per pound issue.

Bowmania

according to stus calculator a 1916 32" with 300gr up front spines out to 14.4 . thats severly underspined!!! i think you are having some other issues if they are hitting where you want them to go. maby some form issues . but synce im not thewre to watch you shoot and look over your setup theres not much else i can tell you.maby some more info and spec's on your setup and shooting style and a vidio would be a possible help as well.

I was thinking the same thing as eric-thor but I do realize each person is diffrent in there shooting styles and that could make some diffreance but I dont think it would make that much . I would think at least a 2016 cut to 30 in. with 145 tips would work but for me a 2018 cut to 30 in. with 145 tip would be better .

i just did some work on stus calculator for ya :
2117 30" stock incert 75 gr tip weight , and 100gr tip. 12 gn knock,4 inch fletch:=57 .

recurve:draw weight 50lb,@29 ,actuall draw 50 lb,
1/8 past center cut offset. 6 strand ff string.=57.8

outcome=arrow weight 583gn. foc=11.7 .fps 178.4 "average." ke: 41.1

take it for what its worth ,,, sofar this calculator is pretty close . the rest is up to you , good luck

my bad gpp is 11.7 , foc is 16.1.  

eric-thor

thanks for the info, my bow is cut 1/8 before center (I think this is what most people aren't catching) instead of past center. Even the bareshaft 1916 shoots left until I go up to 300 grains. Just for gits and shiggles I'll try with lighter points but last time I shot the both the field points and broadheads moved right as I increased the weight.

I had to go up to 300 to get them to hit where I wanted.

When compaired to my Black Onyx rig, when looking from behind at a nocked arrow and the string bisecting the center of the riser the arrow on the new bow is pointing way left. Kinda looks like an English style self bow.

Switch to wood!

yes they all are for a right handed bow shelf cut on left side of the bow . and not cut past center.maby we can talk for a minute ill pm u my cell. if you want.?

i love wood arrows !!! but that is soooo not his problem...

I tried some aluminum Eastons and the chart I used was way off.It could have been a old chart,But I noticed when you get above a 60#@28" they have one arrow choice for multiple applications.The one it suggested were way,way to week. That keeps me from using aluminum. Just curious what material is on the shelf?

IT'S OFFICIAL I'M A DORK

I tried again with the 30.5" GT 35/55 and 250 grains up front. I was slappin arrows, right where I was looking, out to 25 yards (broadheads and field points). I tweaked my grip ever so slightly and as Denny would say

"BAM" or maybe it's "BAYEM"

Sorry to waste everyone's time

According to Stu's calculator I'm still about #7 too weak on the arrow, the chart says 55/75 would be perfect, but I can't argue with the results.