My goal is to keep my arrow cost down as low as possible but keep good quality pieces.

This is what I have figured for my setup...


Gold tip 3555 blems = $3.75
4x4 fletch chopped or burned myself = $1 ( i have to have barred   :rolleyes: )
100 gr brass inserts = $1
snuffer or magnus II = $5

hunting arrow final cost = $10.75
with field tip = $5.75

My eventual goal is to go with wood and make my own trade points but thats further down the road

So what does your system look like

About $40.00 when i use my silver flames.  :rolleyes:

If I put my ACE 200 on it about $7.00.  With a field tip, less than $4.00.

I don't like to calculate such things.  I'm so cheap I might not want to shoot.  

i am with Whip on this one...  Might make me alot more picky at the range.

Well, guess I am cheap also, would really bother me loosin a silver flame broadhead, at $25.00 a piece, prob run my hunt lookin for the broadhead.

Dang sure more than my wife thinks...

All told, somewhere in the neighborhood of $15-$20.

Definately cost more time than money. I enjoy doing though so I guess it's not that much. Less than $10.00 an arrow. Magnus I 160 gn.

If there was a contest for cheap I would lose because I wouldn't fork up the entrance fee...

Thats one reason for starting this thread... seeing if anyone had any good ideas or see if it would be worth the switch to wood and such....

With aluminum shafts bought on here, about four bucks with target points.  With Surewoods bought on this site, about the same without blades but I'll cut the feathers myself.
A lot more time, a little more expensive arrow, but worth it.
I thought switchin' to all trad would be cheaper...boy was I wrong.  If I could afford to pay myself about $30 an hour for all the time I spend building and tinkering I think I could make the numbers work................

Tapered wood shaft    $3.75
Turkey fletch x 3     $1.50
Broadhead             $4.00
Nock                    .25
Stain, seal and crest   .25?

Looks like a minimum $10.00
if I only charge another two bits for my time.

Somewhere in the 10 to $20 range depending on broadhead used.Not much when you consider I seldom loose or break one deer hunting.I can go through a few hog hunting however but usually not that many in a year.

$12 with Carbon Shafts, aluminum external footings and grizzly El Grande Heads.

I building some that are costing $46.50 ea.

Grizly Stik safari's  $16.50 ea
Ashby Broadheads      $30.00 ea

Kinda like what Whip said, only I would cry each time I destroyed one.

About $12.50 with a broadhead on it.

I don't want to know..

Enough that I'll spend 20 minutes looking for a lost one, not enough that I care if I break one in an animal  

I am super cheap when it comes to making arrows because I have a ton of kids and family members to make arrows for but I make good quality arrows for them. Explanation on how I get it so cheap below the prices.

doug fir shaft == 1.50
3 chopped feathers == .30
field tip == .25
nock == .10
finish == .14
color and cresting == .05

finished arrow with field tip or steel blunts == 2.34

finished arrow with broadhead == 6.13

A dozen finished arrows with field tip or steel blunts == 28.08


Shafts I buy off a friend who dowels them

Feathers I buy from a costume company in bulk by the lb I get about 450 cut feathers in the end for about 42 bucks plus shipping. I split sand and chop them. Comes out to 9 cents a feather but I rounded up.

Field tips / steel blunts and nocks I buy in bulk of 100 to 500 and I have so many from doing that I probably don't have to buy any more for many years but I put the price anyway. Nocks are often done a self nocks especially for the kids but I put a cost for them anyway because I do have a few hundred still left over from last time I bough bulk bags of them.

I finish my arrows with 3 coats of Tru-Oil that I rub on with a rag so there is no waste. A single bottle will finish many dozens so I am guessing at the cost there because the stuff will do so many I have no idea what the actual cost is but I tried to get close and err on the side of way more expensive than it probably really is.

If I color I use leather dye that I bought in bulk and if I crest I just do a base of cheap silver or white acrylic model paint and I do the lines with a colored or black permanent sharpie marker and then put the last coat of tru-oil over that. I still have the original sharpies and model paint I bought nearly ten years ago and I have done literally hundreds of arrows with them so coloring and cresting is just a few pennies at best.

Broad heads wise I use a two blade Zwickey Eskimo.