I just finished my first succesful long bow,66 inch oak board bow 52#@27" and took it out to shoot.Problem im having is after about third round thru,im peeling the 5"gateways off of my shaft, Im a lefty and shoot of off moleskin rest cut in 1/2" from center,Left wing Helical,28"and am using some old easton 500 carbon shafts that were given to me, any advise would be apreciated,IE arrow spine?, form? knock pacement?  Help

Maybe the glue job just aint good enough. Try to refletch a few of them correctly with good glue. Strip the arrows of the fletching and clean the shafts with acetone. Sand the fletchig area with 600 grit paper. Check the quill of the feather to make sure it is flat on the shaft. If all looks good, glue on the new feathers. I like to use fletch-tite by bohning. If you are still losing feathers, you have other problems. Oh yea, don't forget to add a drop of glue to the front of the fletchings.

did exactly the same except drop of glue to the front,and that is were the problem starts,thanks,backto the fletching jig

Maybe try rightwing feathers since you are a lefty. some say they clear better for lefties and left wing feathers clear better for rightys

thanks, i will giive that a try

Mark the two hen feathers with different color lipstick to see which one it making contact and go on from there.Check Stu's spine calculator for the correct arrow and What do you have the brace height set at?

on some shafts its the top hen feather and on others its the bottom, knocks all seem to be lined up, I'll cheak the spine caculator again and the brace is at 6.25"

When you hold the bow in front of you does the string ride straight down the middle of the bow?

yes it does

Maybe move the brace to 6 1/2 and check the spine on the shafts

QuoteOriginally posted by poison arrow:
Maybe try rightwing feathers since you are a lefty. some say they clear better for lefties and left wing feathers clear better for rightys

This is a myth.  It doesn't matter what fletching you use as long as you don't mix them on the same arrow and you use the correct fletching jig.
You said you didn't use a drop of glue at the tips of the quills, I'd bet this is your problem.

I have had bad experiances with mole skin as a rest and strike plate.  I was losing fletches also.  I switched to thin leather.  Problem solved.  Bill

What Bill said. Moleskin works great on your feet, but if there is any rough spot on your fletch, moleskin is gonna grab at it till it peals away.

thanks, everyone! for your input. Lots of input from others trials to help this newbie out. Got to say this is the best site ever! Although im gona have to buy another computer for my household instead of fighting abuot who gets to use it when.

Chad,
I concure with all the prevoius posts and suggestions here.  Just thought to add my 2 cents worth here.
I found that the drop of glue on the front of your quill - right at the leading edge of the quill to arrow joint is one of the most important steps in my arrow building.  If I forget (or get lazy) and don't put that generous drop of Fletch-Tite there - my feathers will peel off sooner rather than later.  It does make a difference.  And yet we see a lot of arrow builders who don't do that.
If you arrows don't have that - you can easily do it your-self.  Use fresh glue, put a drop on all 3 feathers and stand the arrow vertical, nock end down for a couple minutes.
Chinook

welcome to my world chad...every day its a battle royal for comp rights.i let momma win cause shes just so adorable though.moleskins are bad for shelf material,tried it and had problems.