So I bought some barrel tapered shafts(Magnolia)and they are tapered to 11/32.My problem is that my heads (11/32) do not fit over the taper.When I use my taper tool they do not fit snug,Not even close!I have tried to do a slight taper with my taper tool and then they are to tight and don't go on straight either.Any and all help would be appreciated.Thanks Tim    

And I checked the How to section

Break them over your knee and toss 'em in the fire. Thats what I would do.

push some playdoh into the head and pull it out, check against your tapered shafts to see what the problem is. ive found that diferent sized shafts  sometimes wont center in tapering tools and it cuts em crooked.i use either a jig for a belt sander or an electric pencil sharpener, then fine tune them by hand to fit whatever my needs.if the shaft is just too small to work you could always make a filler putty with some sawdust and tb glue.after it sets and is shaped id probably soak it with some CA to add some insurance. itll bond the putty and the shaft into a lamination of sorts. course if this is too much work you could always just toss em.lol

Tim, I probably made those shafts. I've just sent you an e-mail message on getting good tapers.

Ignore what Spectre said- I don't know where he's coming from. If I made them, you have a premium product. I never heard of anyone else making barreled Magnolia (yellow poplar).

Tim, the only way I have found to make accurate and consistent tapers is to grind them with a disk sander.  The "pencil sharpener" types will work OK with cedar, but have a hard time with hardwoods.  If you can get access to a disk sander, AMAW makes a taper guide block that does a great job once you set it up.  AMAW, KK, 3RA and I all have the blocks available.  Get in touch if you need help with setting it up.

Rick

Thanks Rick, Don I returned you email

QuoteOriginally posted by Don Stokes:
Tim, I probably made those shafts. I've just sent you an e-mail message on getting good tapers.

Ignore what Spectre said- I don't know where he's coming from. If I made them, you have a premium product. I never heard of anyone else making barreled Magnolia (yellow poplar).

I was just poking fun, man. Relax.

I shot those Superceeders and had no problems getting broadheads to fit the taper. Follow Don's instructions and you will be fine.

Tim,
I shoot those shafts and they are very high quality on my scale. Mine are all 11/32 barrell tapered to 5/16.
Don knows his stuff and these may be the best I've ever had the pleasure of shooting.
Fred

My apologies, Spectre. These shafts are my "babies", and I guess I'm a bit sensitive. I only have 50 dozen or so left, and it will be a bittersweet day for me when they're gone. They're on Dean Torges' web site, with endorsements. I have a list of spines available for anyone who's interested.

On a brighter note, I recently sold my doweler and custom tapering machine to a fellow Tradganger, and we should see some more quality barreled shafts on the market soon! He's made fine progress so far in getting set up.

Back in production?????    

BobW

QuoteOriginally posted by Don Stokes:
My apologies, Spectre. These shafts are my "babies", and I guess I'm a bit sensitive. I only have 50 dozen or so left, and it will be a bittersweet day for me when they're gone. They're on Dean Torges' web site, with endorsements. I have a list of spines available for anyone who's interested.

On a brighter note, I recently sold my doweler and custom tapering machine to a fellow Tradganger, and we should see some more quality barreled shafts on the market soon! He's made fine progress so far in getting set up.

No worries at all, I understand having a love for one's craft.
Fact is, I would like to try some of these shafts.

Don,Thank you for all your help.Like I wrote you you have class and pride when you help with a product of yours that was a third party sale.Thank you again.      

Fellas...when I was dealer for Quillian bows and SuperCeeders, I shot them and sold many dozens to my customers. They were a fine shaft and came with a spine chart so you could make sure you were getting the right spine for your bow. Shot many deer with these shafts.

Thanks for the kind words, gents. Joe, that spine chart was based on a couple of years of bare-shaft testing that my brother and I did, traveling to shoots all over and getting people to shoot our shafts and gathering data. We carried a full set of bare shafts, in three lengths, and a big soft target to shoot. When we had enough, I drew a curve with a computer program and it fit a mathematical equation almost perfectly, a 5th order polynomial. I'm not that much of a mathematician, but the computer was!

The spine chart is in deflection numbers rather than pounds. One of these days I'll convert it for those folks who just insist on the "pound scale", even though it only really applies to self bows. Here's what it looks like:

PS: Those phone numbers are no longer valid.

To convert to the pound scale, compare the self bow column to the bow draw weight column. It's essentially the AMO scale. The deflection number listed is the high end of the draw weight range, so that 45-50# is the deflection range of .570-.520 for example, based on a standard Adams spine tester.

Yup...thats the one. I shot 310 spine...still have one dozen sitting here in my shop...still sealed too.

Joe, not many of those left out there, especially sealed in the original package. Maybe one day they'll be collectible...       I'm all out of that size, myself, except for my personal stash. I don't intend to run out of the ones I shoot!

If they still have the original label, you may have to staple it in place or reglue it. I found that the glue on the label dried out and failed after a decade or so.

Don's hardwood shafts are the best. I got a bunch from him a couple of years ago and have used them for stump shooting, deer missing (a doe from the ground at 10 feet-shot right under her belly), and deer killing.  They are tough and never seem to warp.  Just ordered a bunch more.