The brass nock sets seem to cut my finger tab so I usually tie the nocking point.  I use extra of whatever I served the string with. I never use glue.  I start with a square knot and tie a series of overhand knots then I go back down over the top the same way with a second layer for added thickness.  I finish with a square knot on both sides of the string.  In place of glue, I  burn the tag ends and quickly wipe the melted ends onto the bundle to seal the knot.  The whole deal is roughly the same size of a brass nock set.  It never slips--in fact the only problem is that it is tied so tightly that I can't adjust it up or down very easily if at all.

Here's a link to a build along in the How To resource forum:  http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000078
Hope this helps a little, Rick

Jack, we'll set up shop at ATAR and have at it!

Hope to see you there!!

Good thread, I also do the same as Allen.  No problems.  Next time I'll try waxing it ahead of time and see how it works.  But Robs nock sure is Purdy!

Yeah Rob, How did ya get that So Purty?? Mine dont Look ANYTHING Like That.     They end up Looking like a Ball of String,     which....I guess thats what they are.  

this is a whipped nock point (not a knot) using large diameter .025" bcy #62 braid black/white serving.  the actual center serving is .019" bcy halo.  

use unwaxed thread (center serving type) and never any waxed thread (bowstring fiber or dental floss) as the wax inhibits the capillary flow of the binding agent (quality model shop thin cya such as 'hot stuff').

serve the nocking point with just a few turns, whipping the tag end back under the nock serving. pull the tag end *tight* and leave it hanging.  liberally saturate with water thin cya.  when the cya has cured, use a razor blade/knife to trim off the hardened tag end.  give the entire nock point one more light coat of cya.  

the result is a hard and ultra light nock point that will last the life of the string and not harm your leather glove or tab.

note: this type of nock point can't be moved, it's permanent.  it can be removed by cutting off with a razor blade/knife.  use knots instead of serving if you need to move the nock point.

fyi -

when making a movable knotted nock pointm make sure to *liberally" wax (rub it in good) the center serving in the area of the nock point - this will help keep the cya from bonding the nock point to the serving,

B-50 stretchs. What's your take on tied string nocks on B-50 strings?

Lately I have started using braided fly line backing material. It is florescent yellow. I whip tie it much like Rob described, melt the tag ends, add the CA glue, and don't have to do it again until I put on a new string.

I have also gone to using two nock points even shooting split. I think I get more consistent arrow flight because the nock can't slip even a little bit.

QuoteOriginally posted by straitera:
B-50 stretchs. What's your take on tied string nocks on B-50 strings?

i use waxed dacron for knotted nock points, liberally doused with thin cya.  go back a page and see the image.

I've used dental floss for years; its stays in place, and is as durable as anything you will ever use.  A simple whip finish makes it tight and secure.

I have used B50,D97 and No 4 nylon serving for tie on nocks,they all work fine for me.

I've always used the metal nocks but don't really like them for reasons mentioned above.  as of late I've been using thin strips of duct tape and a dap of glue.  It has worked well so far but I don't know how well it will hold up over time.

I've used both, depending on my mood and how much time I have.

I've never experienced the problems mentioned with brass nocksets.  My guess is because I use quality nocksets (from Saunders), I use nocksets that fit the string properly, and I use a set of quality nocking pliers that don't just pinch, but round off the nockset.  Works just fine with a glove or tab.

Chad

Guys thanks for all the response , after returning form FL I will give it another try. I don't want to try something on a hunt.


Jack

I use BCY #3D and start with a clove hitch and wrap twice then a clove hitch on the other side and then two more wraps and end it with a clove hitch.And wax it in and slight heat on the wax(blow dryer)and wax again.I never have one slip,A clove hitch is a self tightening knot.  

been using dental floss and fingernail polish for for about 35 years. when it starts getting frayed, just add another coat of polish. Never had a problem.

Amazing! Three pages on tied on nock locators! I have been using tied on nock points for years and never even was aware that there was/could be a problem since they work so perfectly for me.  I just use B50, tie it in simple over-hand knots back and forth on opposite sides, finish with a square knot, and touch a drop of glue (super, fletch tite, or whatever I have around) and never have had one move. Simplest thing there is in archery to me. Sometimes I use the whipped method but don't really like it any better than my usuaul method.

This has worked great for me:
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000014

I use bowstring in a different color than my serving and main bowstring.

This thread is just what I've been needing because I've been toying with the idea of tying on my nocks instead of using brass ones.

Thanks Fellas!