Tuning a Widow

Seeza · January 25, 2010, 12:20:00 PM

Hi all, I have a new to me SA X osage 56" (bought off classifieds, very happy with bow, seller, etc.) The bow is 54 lbs at 25.5 inches. I draw 26.5. I am having trouble bare shaft tuning. I have tried 2018's and 2117's all the way down to 27 inches at 1/4 inch increments with 125 gr field points. I have been tuning these 2018's and 2117's in r/d longbows and recurves from 56 to 59 lbs and up to 165 grains of field tip. They keep showing weak out of the widow (nock left). Out of my Ballistik 56# @ 27 inches they are good or even stiff. Does the widow shoot that much harder? Any recommendations for shafting would be appreciated. I would like to stay with 165 grains up front. (125 gr broadhead with 40 grain adapter.) Thanks.

lpcjon2 · January 25, 2010, 12:35:00 PM

Check out stu's calculator just google it and download then put in the exact spec's of your bow and it will give you the arrow that will work.

mooseman76 · January 25, 2010, 12:37:00 PM

I don't think they shoot that much harder (maybe not harder at all) then any of the other high performance recurves. What I think you are experiencing is due to the fact that the Widow is cut 3/16" past center requiring an arrow that is stiffer. You could try builing up your site window to bring the arrow closer to center and see what happens...Mike

January 25, 2010, 02:10:00 PM

Definitely stiffer from a widow. try 2020s.

Robertfishes · January 25, 2010, 03:13:00 PM

put on a 75 or 100 grain point and see if it bareshafts better, if it does then go to a stiffer arrow shaft. I have a bunch of points in my bow box just for bare shafting new bows

cacciatore · January 25, 2010, 03:19:00 PM

My widows like the same arrow of other 10# more draw weight recurves.

JOEBO · January 25, 2010, 04:44:00 PM

According to Stu's calculator
2117 cut 29" w/ 125gr point, std alum insert
should grt you close

ronp · January 25, 2010, 07:00:00 PM

Hey Tim,
I have found that my BW PAII needs stiffer shafts than my other bows of the same draw length/weight. And they are all cut a little past center. Do you happen to have the DVD that Black Widow includes with each of their bows? I found it to be a great help with bare shaft tuning and getting my bow set up correctly. I have used the methods to bareshaft tune a couple other bows (not Widows) as well with very good sucess. They also have an arrow spine chart that is included with their owners manual. I can email you a copy of the chart if you think it might help. It sure helped me.
ron

john shofestall · January 25, 2010, 07:02:00 PM

They can definetly shoot a stiffer arrow

sleepingbear · January 25, 2010, 07:06:00 PM

I have about the same draw length. Stiffer is better.Is your knock point high enough?

Seeza · January 25, 2010, 09:35:00 PM

Thanks for all the replys so far. I have used the BW method in the DVD and was just surprised that I was going to need to buy different shafting. Sleepingbear, I still have the knock set high as I was going for spine first and then will bring the nock down. Thanks again to all.
I will probably try 2020's or if someone can recommend a carbon, I'm open at this point.

Orion · January 25, 2010, 11:20:00 PM

If it's cut 3/16 past center, as mooseman suggests, that's the problem. Being cut to center or a little past center isn't the same. 3/16 past center is a lot and takes a very stiff shaft to tune. Much easier to build out the strike plate a sixteenth or eight of an inch.

Zbearclaw · January 26, 2010, 12:45:00 AM

My 60" #55 @27" PSAII takes a 29" CE heritage with 5" feathers, reflective wraps, standard insert and 175gr head.

I draw to 28.5" to front of riser, whatever that is in actual draw length.

Cootling · January 26, 2010, 09:48:00 AM

Increasing brace height generally makes shafts behave as if they are more limber (see, e.g., the Easton tuning guide). The effect is very substantial. Black Widow bows have a relatively high brace height, hence require relatively stiff shafts.