Goodmorning to all!!
I spent 2 hours searching previous posts and couldnt find an answer. Hopefully this isnt a repeat topic.
Arrow tails left in flight yet it hits where im looking and enters target straight.
Suggestions to correct?????? Thanks

whats your setup? bow,#,arrow, tip weight?
we need more info.sounds like a spine issue.

gaff

If you are right handed, it might be too weak. Try lighter point to see if it straightens out.

Since it is impacting straight, you sure its tailing, or is it the appearance due to one bold fletch color?

Its definately tailed left.  It doesnt fishtail.  The fletch just hangs left the whole way down range.  Impacting straight may be because of the target material, i suppose.  Its one of those burlap bags with that white fiber in it.  
62" saxon hawk recurve
setback handle
65@28"
cedar arrows spined between 60 and 64lbs 3 fletch
28" long to the back of the field point
I tried points from 100gr. to 200gr. the tailing occurs with all.
My draw length is 27"
thanks

I am right handed.
The arrow is fletched with one barred feather and two black.

im not a wood arrow shooter, but those arrows may be to weak spined for your setup. im sure someone w/ more ceder experience will be along..

gaff

I have a short draw (26 1/2")as well..
EVERY Cedar arrow I have ever shot that flew correctly needed to be spined 5-10 LESS than the bow weight... On a non ceter shot bow (selfbow) for example because of the paradox depending on the bow even I have needed even lighter spined POC shafts to get perfect arrow flight. Spend the money and time to get things perfect...!

Your shaft is for sure showing weak.. Accept nothing less than a "ball" of feathers spinning perfectly straight all the way to the target.  Matter of fact, years ago I started to only tune arrows shooting broadheads.. They get the job done so tune with them first. Any field tip will be right down the middle after you get broadheads to fly perfectly. Every archer/bow is different. Brace height, release, draw length, nock fit, installed correctly, ect. ect.  The arrow will not lie to you. Nock left for a RH shooter is weak... Buy a test "kit" of a few differnt spined shafts, cut to length fletch them and test shooting broadheads.. One spine will be "right" for you and the bow.

If you need quality hand spined/sorted POC's I have bought superb quality shafts from Mike at the Nocking Point... Great prices and even better service with Mike.

In bowhunting,

John III

Since you tried the different point weights with no difference in flight then let me ask you this. Is you glove/tap quite used or worn badly? ART

You are almost certainly underspined. Most recurve bows shooting wood need 15-25# more spine than the draw weight for 28" arrows, depending on how the bow is set up.

My tab is not worn too bad.  I just tried a new one with the same results.
I did try from 20yds back and i do notice a left to right fishtail, but it was not drastic.
I was originally standing at only 10yds when I noticed the left tail.  Maybe there wasnt enough distance to let the arrow flight develop.
I also tried shooting with no tip at all.  The arrow flys perfect.
So this would show that the arrow is indeed underspined, which would be caused by the extra weight upfront.   Correct?

My hawk is 60#@28 and I have a 28" draw.My arrows are 65-70 tapered cedars cut to 29 1/2" with 160gr points.I get great flight with this combo.

I just measured the arrows and they are 31" to the back of the point. I dont know why i thought they were 28.  
This should give me some room to increase spine, i think.
Any suggestions or should I just try an inch at a time.
my draw is 27

Cut them where if you have a broadhead it touches the fingers on your hand as a draw check. Then tune for point weight.

thanks i will give it a try!

Hey, before you cut them all down to the shorter length, STOP.

Start out only cutting one arrow and do it in about 1/2 inch increments.  When you start to get close, cut even smaller increments to sneak up on the perfect spine.  If you just cut them down, you might cut them all too short and be stiff then you'd be looking for heavier points and trying to point tune your arrow length error.  Best to work on just one at a time.

Also, I'd strip the fletch off that one arrow and shoot them bare shaft.  When bareshafting, you will usually not get perfect flight but you can get perfect point of impact with some visual left kick.  The slight left kick would show just a little weak spine and putting the fletch back on should make them fly perfect.  Once you get one dialed in, do just one other the same way and make sure the first was not a fluke.  If you have two flying perfect, have at the rest of them.

Thanks Dave!!  Try to work on it this afternoon.