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Never miss, 100% can't fail methods to gluing on points...

Started by Bowspirit, July 29, 2009, 08:53:00 PM

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Old York

I've found grinding a spot-on taper helps too -
the wood tip goes clear to the
bottom just shy of a mouse whisker.
'Perfect' taper = less gap-filling demand
on the glue.

I soak the points in MEK,
run a riflebore brush on their
insides, wipe out the taper with
Q-tips, get them clean, lightly abraded.
Ferrule-Tite works very well for me.

Trying to glue dirt just doesn't work,
no matter what glue is applied.
"We were arguing about brace-height tuning and then a fistmele broke out"

Don Stokes

Charlie Lamb's method is almost identical to the way I was taught by Stinson Hill, Howard's uncle. I was losing points at the Howard Hill World Championship in Wilsonville, AL around 20 years ago and Stinson helped me out. He was cooking burgers, and put my points on the grill to heat them up. When they were hot, he gave me a cup of water to quench them in after they were glued on and pressed hard. Haven't had a problem since. I now use a torch to heat the clean tips to the point that the little bit of glue bubbles some, but doesn't burn when the point is rotated on under pressure. As soon as it sets enough to release the pressure, it goes in a cool cup of water. This seems to create a vacuum when the point contracts that keeps the point in place.

Ferr-L-Tite will work fine if everything else is right. One thing to consider if you still lose points is whether the taper is accurately cut and the proper length. If the angle is off or if the taper is a hair too long and bottoms out, the points won't stay on regardless.
Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.- Ben Franklin

JRY309

What I do for glue on points is I take a NPT 1/16-27 pipe tap and tap some threads in the point to give them some teeth.Then clean it out with alcohol and use a hot melt,but not Ferr-l-lite I find it becomes brittle after awhile.I use Saunders hot melt or Stick tite.They are more of a white colored hot melt,it is stronger and never lost a point after doing this.This is what has worked for me.

Old York

From JRY - "NPT 1/16-27 pipe tap"

Now that's one of the slickest ideas
I've seen in a long time, I'm heading
to the hardware store
"We were arguing about brace-height tuning and then a fistmele broke out"

M60gunner

JRY - What size points do you use? 11/32 or 23/64? I no nothing about pipe taps and their sizes. Would one need different sizes for different sizes of point? I would guess so.


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