I know there is a similar post out now but here is my issue:

Absolutely no feather wear.

Accuracy is dead on.

Arrows bare shaft correctly.

Changing knocking point to correct bare shaft tuning doesn't help.

Could I be a little stiff and not see it in the bare shaft?

Should I shoot 500's? seam a little light for this set up.

I draw 28" and my arrows are about 1.5" to short at the time being. I need to order more shafts for this season coming up but don't want to order more 400's if this is why it is happening.

Could my short arrows be stiffening up a little and causing this?

51# @28" recurve
B-50 string
beamen ics 400's

thanks!

 

QuoteAbsolutely no feather wear.

Accuracy is dead on.

Arrows bare shaft correctly.

Changing knocking point to correct bare shaft tuning doesn't help.

Could I be a little stiff and not see it in the bare shaft?

I wouldn't worry about it then.

whats your point weight?

If your arrow is like 27" and you are short drawing the bow your only pulling about 47-48#.  Assuming it is FF and cut to center that 27" 400 carbon needs about 350 gr. on the end.  Much less and you are over spined.  If your bow is not FF and cut out a little you would need like 400 gr. or so.  I suspect you don't have it and you are way over spined.

I am having a similar problem with a new bow.  No feather wear and shooting good.  Bare shaft looks good.  However, I have figured out my nock is too low.  Take it up a ways and now all of a sudden the shaft is stiff.  A low nock was causing my shaft to ride hard low and push over and around the edge of the shelf and that was causing my shaft to read weak until I stiffened it up to compensate.

125 grain point wieght.

I am drawing 28". the arrows are shorter than normal for me but they are still over 28".

cut past center and not FF as stated in the OP.

If I use a 31" ics 400 and a 140 grain BH do you think I will be near good? Or should I go to 31" 500's with 140 grain BH?

I just don't want to order arrows that are useless. I have been hit pretty bad in this economy and cant really afford any arrows but I know I need some to hunt with this year that are correct length. I already have magnus 2 blade 140 grain BH to use.

thanks

Oh ya about the 500 shafts, I see now you have a B-50 string.  I will assume the bow is cut out just a little like at least 1/16".  If you draw 28 and cut shafts to 28.5" a 500 carbon with 100 gr. brass insert and 125 gr. point will be in the ball park.  You can also go with lighter inserts and heavier point and so on, but probably about 250 on the front is about as heavy as you will likely get with that length 500, your bow, and draw length.  You can stay with the 400, but you will need to load up the front and maybe run something more like a 30" arrow.

I was thinking 31" 400 with a 100 grain insert and the 140 grain BH. I think I would be alright then.

thanks

How far cut past center to the face of the strike plate material?  

I have a bow cut past center, but when built out it is at center.  If you are out to center a 140 gr. BH in your bow needs a shaft longer than I thing you can find uncut in a 400.  A 500 will probably be over 30".  I have been working with bows 45-54# and have yet to set anything up without at lest 175 gr. total on the front with carbons.

50 gr. brass with the 140 BH and that shaft I think will be closer.  That or work the shaft length down a little.  There are a lot of variables, but you're in the ball park.  Get some different field point weights and do some testing as you cut you shafts.

I am shooting a 54@28 pulling 28 with FF and cut to center right now and my arrows currently are 400's cut 29.25" with 245 gr.  I am close to getting it all worked out.

thanks for the info.

im going to just bite the bullet and order 12 400's. I'll play with sizes and weights on a few until its right.

thanks!

Before ordering new arrows, try raising your brace height about an inch.  You are just a little stiff, otherwise you would be wearing the edge of the shelf away... Bill