I think I've got it figured...
So I take 3 bare? shafts, shoot them at 20yds.
Then I take 3 fletched? w/broadheads? same weight, length etc.. shafts and shoot at same distance. Now I adjust nock point till they show similar up/down impact, once that is achieved I start shortening the shafts a 1/4" at a time until they all group "together"?? Or do I want the "bare" shafts to hit slightly to the right, RH shooter, for a "slightly" weak, more "forgiving" arrow tune? and if so how far to the right do I want them to be.
Or am I getting TOO critical. What about having them group basically together at 20-30yds.
Like I said I "THINK" I'm understanding how to properly "planing method" tune my set-up.
Thanks

No broadheads. You want the bareshafts to shoot SLIGHTLY right. For spine you should shorten if they are grouping left and add point weight if they are grouping right. If they all group together that's fine too.

Ok, so if all is close or the "bares" are slightly to the right, I'm good to go? Broadheads "should"? not make much of a difference?

I've heard that if you hold the bow vertical stand 45deg. to the target and shoot bare shafts, shortening them, till they stick and fly straight you are tuned.
  This "planning method" is new to me. I am setting this bow up to hunt with, not target shoot, is this method advantageous/better for "hunting shots" ?? or is the other way "good enough" I got good flight from 500 axis shafts from a slightly past center cut curve I had with 265g up front, also got good flight from 400's and 340's as well, but it sounded like the stiffer shafts were "schlideing" {real word} past the riser, not flexing.
I shoot Hill style, but have never heard how Howard tuned his bows and arrows

You have the idea but you skipped a step.

1. shoot bear shafts and fletched field points and make adjustment to those shafts untill you have a single group with the 6 shafts.

2. Then shoot fletched field point and fletched broadhead shafts and make adjustments untill you have a single group with those 6 shafts.

I say 6 shafts because i use 3 of each. Any change you make to one shaft you make to the hole set of 6, make one change at a time. Dont make a nock point change and a shaft change at the same time, dont make a point weight change and a lenght change at the same time.

Start with #1 at 15 yards and as the group closes up make your way out to 25. once your group is good at 25 switch to #2. When i say group i dont mean a 4" group at 25 yards your group at your skill level could be 24" at 25 yards as long as it is a group not 3 fletched on the far side of the 24" and the bear shafts on the other side of the 24" if you understand what im trying to say.

This is the way i do it and it works well for me.
Disclamer: your results may very      

PS. tune the bow how you are going to shoot it. if you shoot with a cant tune with a cant.