I'm in the process of conforming a beavertail grip to my treadway...everything is going great and it is drying right now.... i'm following Abe's (caribow) instructions and am happy the results thus far... The instructions say to use contact cement underneath the grip....im a little leary of that step because i just spent a couple weeks refinishing the bow.... would the leather stay put with just tightly stitching or is it best to put some glue underneath it? And last of all...what is the best stitching method? thanks all! By the way...I recieved the tanned beaver tail extremely quick from Abe and i love it.

i would use rubber cement that way if you take it off it rolls off the finish with ur finger and don't hurt it. The stich i would use is a baseball stich that way it rolls back in to it's self and the edges stay down. just my 2cents good luck  

I agree, make sure you glue it besides stitching it tightly. I've had bow grips that were not glued move around a little as they get older. Most tanned leather has a tendency to stretch when it's taunt.

will the rubber cement damage the finish ..or is there a better alternative...thanks again..steve

I have removed at least 3 leather grips Steve to make my grips smaller.They all had been glued in place prior to stitching with either spray adhesive or rubber cement.The finish was fine when i removed the grip and rubbed any glue residue off with my finger from the wood.

Steve I have also used 3-M spray adhesive to attach strike plates and rug rests and when I romoved them i never had a problem with the finish being damaged

Eric...thanks bud..thats what i wanted to hear... i just refinished that 64"er the riser was real hazy, cloudy, and the cocobola looked almost purplish......... you wouldnt believe it's the same bow...came out sweet!!! Hopefully, i'll see you at comptons to show you.

Steve,
I would like to see some pictures when your done. If you get a chance.


Bill

Would love to see it.I think that might have been my bow at one time.I would not know for sure unless I saw it in person though.Glad to hear the facelift was a winner.

Barge cement works great.
Don

The barge cement, or rubber cement, will melt many rattle can finishes.  I know that the lacquer I used to use didn't like it at all.  I'm spraying Fullerplast now, and it isn't affected.

What finish did you end up using Steve?
Stop by for a visit and let me check it out at Compton.Chuck

I ended up just using truoil.... probably more coats than neccessary..but still looks pretty....i took jeremys advice and sealed the cocobola with a universal dewaxed shellac sanding sealer..worked great.... the tru oil puts somewhat of a shiny finish on the bow... i dont mind that for 3-d....but i'll just throw a coat of furniture wax on it before hunting...that will dull it down and then i'll buff it out at the end of the season..... i could just use 0000 to the dull the finish..but i kind of like the gloss look in the off season....this beaver tail is sweet... i'll post pics of the finished product assuming i dont screw up my baseball stitch   :eek:

I have one of Abe's beaver tail grips, rest, and side plate, and all I know is that you won't be disappointed. It's the most durable I've ever used as well as the best in all weather conditions. Sorry for lack of info on attaching it. I used Barge's to touch up the edges and it worked great.

Here's one I did on a home made bow following Abe's instructions and using Barges cement over TruOil. It worked great and no problem with Barges and TruOil - any excess rubbed right off with no marring of finish.

Shaun...thats exactly what i was looking for ...you just hit the nail on the head buddy..thank for posting and i'll stop at the craft store and pick up some barge cement tonight... nice job on your grip also!

That is one Purdy beaver....

.      


Tail Grip

Congrats to my bud jacobsladder...

He has worked really hard on this bow, and I can't wait to see the end result...

Way to go.......................................................