hi, all,

what are your most successful adhesives for attaching field points/broadheads to wood arrows?

thanks for the input

stan

I just use regular clear glue sticks and a propane torch seems to hold up pretty good.

I was using Bohning Ferrule Tite, the amber stuff.  I had good luck with it, but it seemed like after a year, the stuff would get brittle, and I would lose a lot of points in targets.

Maybe something in my wood stain? Don't know.

Anyway, I switched to some stuff called Hunt Bond, that I got from The Nocking Point.  So far it seems to work really well, and it was a bit cheaper, too.

2 part epoxy and nothing else for me. To remove the point, I heat it with a candle and pull it off with pliers. My points never come off (knock on wood    )

clear glue sticks from wally world.

Clean the points good and Feer-l-tite has always worked good for me. Only time I lose points is sometimes when a 3D target is cold. 5 minute epoxy does a good job also

thanks for teh quick input, guys.  i used hot glue sticksthat worked great for 6 months, then 80% of my points fell off within 2 days...annoying to say the least!

stan

did you clean the points on the inside? did you make the taper little ruff so the glue will stick?

Clean the points well and 12 min epoxy is my procedure. Can't remember when I last lost a tip in a hay bale, excelsior bale, or 3d target.

Guy

Hot melt

I have used Ferrl Tite for years but had some difficulties the last couple years.  I think I decided the probelm was the residue left in the PDP points.  They are about the only brand available any moe and I need to clean them with alcohol before gluing on or the glue can come loos in a target.  I do not have this problem with older points I still have or with broadheads.  I think the clear hot melt is too soft and I have never liked epoxy for points.  I think you have to get the heat too high to break them loose and it is hard on the shaft.  If you never plan to remove the points I guess it would not matter.

I'm new to this wood arrow game myself, but I've come to favor the Kim-sha hot melt to regular Ferr-L-Tite. Seems to give a better hold and handle better in all conditions...

John, you're right. A higher heat is needed to break the epoxy bond. However, I just switched out points on a set of 14 arrows that I put the wrong points on (note to self: re-read the arrow order at each step) and the wood didn't even change color from the heat. One thing that may have helped was using a pair of pliers to pull the tip. That way I was able to break the bond at a lower heat than what may have been done with just waiting for the point to fall off on its own.

Guy

I have always used Goat Tuff glue from Kustom King and never had a problem and it sets up fast.  The nice thing is it is still heat reverseable so I can change points without a problem.

This seems very familiar. I think the regular hot melt might break down over time, causing the lost points.(Read my quote)  :D  

I now use a construction grade hot melt that I got from a friend..sorry, dont know the name or source.

Well , everything previously said is good advice!Prep work with any material and adhesive is very important. But remember, this is wood and overtime wood does swell and shrink so it's a good idea to check your points by pulling with pliers if they have been idle for awhile. Good shootin,Steve