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Barge Cemment for leather handle

Started by NW Jamie, April 10, 2009, 06:10:00 PM

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NW Jamie

Having watched the 3Rivers video on installing a leather grip and Mike's recomendation at Mikes Archery Leather I have been searching for place to get "Barge Cemment" and have not found one, other than mail ording. Is the another adheisive that will also work for the leather bow grip? Thanks in advance for your help.
Regard's,
Jim

camolaw

If you have an Ace Hardware, they had it when I needed it.

Adam Keiper

Regular DAP contact cement works great.  (Lowe's and most hardware stores have it.) Very much like Barge, but slightly thinner and with more fumes.  

Titebond works very well, too, unless the leather will be indented smartly around the sides of a raised leather shelf.

longstiks

Barge is a brand name contact cement, you can find it most any where as contact cement.Barge does come in a very handy tube but a q-tip with the end cut off works pretty well in a larger size can. A very small can lasts a long time for a lot of sticking stuff together.
Denny

Gary Logsdon

I get mine from Three Rivers.  Costs around $5 a tube.
Gary Logsdon

ron w

Most hardware stores carry contact cement in some form.
In the beginner's mind there are many possibilities. In the expert's there are few...So the most difficult thing is always to keep your beginner's mind...This is also the real secret of the arts: always be a beginner.  Shunryu Suzuki

Dick4bows

Good old rubber cement works great.  I give the Leather wrap a baseball stitch in the front also.  Remember to apply it to the wood and the leather and let it get tacky.  Dick


Ps: easier to remove too.

ranger 3

Hobby Lobby has it if you have one there.
Black widow PLX 48@28
Black widow PSRX 48@28

JRY309

I get my Barge cement from Kustom King,and it is all I ever use for rest and handle grips.

d. ward

Tandy Leather has a 16 oz can with brush about 20.00 plus shipping.bowdoc

Roughcountry

The new formula Barge cement is not as good as the old due to them changing the formula to comply with EPA regs. That being said it's still the number one contact cement for leather. It is better on the new stuff to use two coats of cement on both surface's. Let the first one dry completly and them let the second tack up well before pressing the leather in place.

The big advantage with Barges is you can use it on wet leather, this allows you to form the leather into areas that it won't go into dry.
I get it by the gallon and have to get thinner also. RS

NW Jamie

QuoteOriginally posted by Roughcountry:
 It is better on the new stuff to use two coats of cement on both surface's. Let the first one dry completly and them let the second tack up well before pressing the leather in place.

RS
Thanks for all of the tips, I will check out some of the places mentioned and find the Barge cement. Roughcountry, with the two coats that you mentioned; does putting on the first coat to the leather hinder conforming to the wood grip when you apply the second coat and go to form around the wood? Thanks for the help.
Regard's,
Jim

Roughcountry

Jamie
You want the leather damp thru & thru ( called cased) the glue dries faster than the leather can and this will give you plenty of time. Most leathers used for grip covers won't need to be damp.
It's the exotic leather that caseing will help on. Form it to the grip when cased and then apply the glue after you get it semi formed. Tricky to get good at but well worth learning on the stiffer leathers.


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