I was wondering what bow quiver people are using for longer broadheads, such as the 300 xtreme.  They fit well in my boa, but are too long for my efa quiver.  I prefer to use the efa quiver for weight and profile reason and also like the new connections system, but wish they were just a hair deeper.  Have the same problem with my great northern side quiver.

www.kanatiquiver.com

I use WW heads with my Great Northerns.  I have to modify the quiver by taking out the foam insert and metal guard inside.  I then cut off about 1-1.5" off of the bottom of the foam and then slide the top foam piece back up into the quiver.  This modification allows the broadhead to be completely covered by the quivers hood.  Works for me.

the purpose of a quiver is twofold- one reasois to conveniently carry your arrows- the second is to keep you SAFE while doing #1- removing the metal gguard from inside the quiver means if you fall onthe quiver you riskseriously cutting yourself when doing so

I realize ifthe broadheads  extend below the quiver it's dangerous but removing that metal sheild inside is a bad choice

I too need a quiver that covers my 190 grizzlies

Yeah Ray, I'm trying to sharpen up some 190's as well.  I wonder if they would make a custom EFA that was a little deeper?  I'll look into the kanati as well, but I think they may be a little bulkier than the EFA.

Patrick, EFA makes hoods of different sizes and depths. We also keep the weight under 6 ounces even with the larger hoods. Give me a call if you need more info.

2fletch

Are you making a hood deep enough to completely cover a 3 inch broadhead

We are trying to get our website updated to show the different sizes and models. Guess we have been to busy making quivers and not enough time with the website. That's partially your fault, and we appreciate it. Thanks.

Ray, our Jumbo II series is very close to 3 inches in depth whereas our standard hood is only about 2.25 inches.

I did this for Adam initially and then for me too.
Work'd fine.

You can make them as deep as you want.

Bjorn,
 It's a little tough to tell exactly what you did from the picture.  Whatever it is, it look creative.  Could you explain a little more about your modifications, please?

pdk25

Most Bow quivers that are made from quality materials are a little heavier than the light weights. With that said, you may want to consider a quality made bow quiver when putting a long broadhead in your bow quiver. Light flimsy leather is not a good option when playing with sharp broadheads. Check us out...
www.kanatiquiver.com

pdk25 I extended the leather hood 1/2-3/4" by gluing on some really stiff leather. Enough to get rid of those sharp edges and corners-makes it all the more relaxing.

It's true that more weight can indicate higher quality materials. It can also indicate poor choice of materials or bad design as well. At EFA we design our products to be as light as possible but with adequate safety. Instead of putting metal in the quiver we mold a synthetic plate which will stop a broadhead but won't dull it. We also don't use fender washers inside the hood. Less metal keeps the weight down and allows the quiver not to affect how the bow shoots.

Lead is heavier then gold but which is worth more?

Kanati Angle Quiver or Pro Quiver will completely cover 4 Grizzly 190's and hold them in place too.  It will also hold 4 Snuffer 160's comfortable enough if you stagger them slightly. 300 Xtremes should be no problem. The quiver is rock solid on your bow. Can't be beat.

Gold is to flashy in the woods....  :D

Ray,

IMO I feel it is much more dangerous to have the bottom of my broadheads hanging out under the hood than removing the metal guard in the top.  The leather hood on my Great Northern is pretty thick so I don't worry  to much about my tanto tipped WW pushing through.  If it worrys some who want to try this modification you could fit another thick piece of leather in the bottom of the quiver and then push the foam back in.  Works for me.

Thanks Bjorn, and thanks to everyone else for their input.  Got some thinking to do, which doesn't come easily to me.

Well John Dills quiver will hold my treesharks so I can't see them little bitty extremes being a problem for it.

Still haven't decided what I'm going to do about the bow quiver, but for my great northern side quiver I am experimenting.  Took the foam out and removed the metal plate.  Put the metal plate in the bottom of the quiver and put silicone rubber caulk in the bottom (on top of the metal plate) to fill up space.  Letting it cure, then gonna put the foam on top.  Think it's gonna work well, because I really just needed the extra space to the top of the leather.  If it still isn't long enough, I will only have added some extra weight, which isn't too much of a big deal with a side quiver.