Go with a Grizzly head and you will see a big difference.  The LandShark design does not promote good penetration.

Mike

My experience with carbons is that you need to drop down in spine, especially with a longbow, to get them to tune. With GT 3555's, I still have to load the front pretty heavy to get them to tune with my 50-55 pound longbows. Mine are cut to center. If yours is not, that stiff arrow will be coming out sideways. With a high FOC, the length of the shaft will make little or no difference to penetration.

I agree with the others on the broadhead choice. The cut nice big holes, but don't penetrate well. A grizzly or woodsman would zip right through with that arrow weight.

BTW: a lighter arrow will NOT penetrate as well as a heavy one. Just watch the wheelie guys on TV and see all the shafts sticking out on the fletch side.

I've shot 5 animals with the same 55/75 GT without the insert, 125 gr Stingers - 420gr total - 53Lb recurve. Blew thru 2 deer, broke offside leg of one, and lodged in the offside shoulder of another deer and a cow elk.

You should have plenty - check tuning as others have said.

Steve

I have to agree with tuning as well. I shot a similar setup except I had to cut my arrow to 29" to get good arrow flight. Trim them down a little at a time. Mike

I have killed hogs and deer with the very same bow you are shooting with 2018 shafts with landsharks.
 Your carbons are too stiff and I`m willing to bet your shooting your hogs to high.
 On a bet I once threw a 2018 with a Zwicky delta on it through the ribs and into the lungs of a pig I had already killed. He was laying on his side before I field quartered him.The head stopped on a rib on the other side . He was about 70 lbs.

  Here you go..I found a pic . Can`t hardly see the pig but it was about 150. The bow you have now...2018 arrow WELL TUNED and a Landshark.Broadhead came out the other side.
 It ain`t the broadhead.RC

One more about 70 pounds .Arrow stopped in the off side shoulder blade. Your Bow again.
 That bow is not cut to center. So it will use a weaker arrow than some.RC

 

I agree with RC about the broadhead.Never used the landshark but have shot the bigger treeshark through them with a lot less bow weight than you are shooting.

i am betting on arrow set up--and yes robert i am aiming high on them ans tight to the shoulders because they are almost under me!  this also may be a prob., but not as much as the arrow set up.  i have 260 up front with the help of the brass inserts.  i will try a 2020 and a 35/55 this week.  i tried a 35/55 full length with and without the brass inserts and 175gr. points and still get nock left.  what do i do to get the nock left out?
with the bow not bieng cut to center, what does that mean?  what will it mean as far as my arrow selection is concerned?

Try playing with nock position. A 2020 will probably be too stiff as well.
 If I remember I shot that bow with a lot of "heel" in it and had no problems. John would shoot it high wrist and the arrows flew crazy.
 Its the bow I`ll give you 125 bucks for it...RC

agree with tuning and a better broadhead. the sharks are liked by some, but they were shown to be poor penetrators by Ashby. If tuning is good, change broadheads and make sure they are razor sharp, those landsharks are difficult to really get razor sharp, I have tried and no longer use them. JMO good luck

Nock left is weak. That much weight up front needs a stiffer arrow in many cases. you really dont need that much up front, but it doesn't hurt if you can shoot it.
the bow cut wherever really has no bearing on anything other than you just need to tune your arrow in. Cut to center bows generally take a stiffer arrow, and can shoot more ranges of spines. If they are not cut to center, the arrow must bend more to get around the bow, so a weaker arrow spine is necessary. really, with a ton of weight up front, you need to start looking at arrows one spine range higher just to start, and may need more depending on the length of arrow.  spend time learning and trying now so that when the summer is almost over you are ready to go.

Like Wingnut said - go with a razor sharp Grizzly once your arrow is tuned like Overspined and others have recommended....

I'm thinking those arrows you are shooting are too stiff as well.  The nock left is not a good indicator.  How do your bare shafts group compared to fletched ones?

Anybody have any landsharks they don`t want send them to me.RC

robert, cant get rid of her---we've come a long way! you know i shot compounds a long time and have the " compound grip", so i think i shoot a lot of high wrist

i am still learning all this stuff guys, i have not been in it as long as most of you and that is why i am on here-- to learn and hopefully better myself.  i still have a lot to learn and want to get my form and release down.  i still dont think i am getting a good release.  i cant quite figure out how to either.  i watched tim welch and cant figure out how he does it.  i dont know how to do back tension with a longbow and 3 under.  

i forgot to mention, that i bare shafted some 35/55 the other day and they nocked left with and without the brass inserts and used 175 gr. points both times. i will do a lot more bare shafting this week with a lot of different arrows to see what the bow likes best.  the only thing i dont have is a 2018, and i am sure i can get one somewhere to play with.

fountain, " forgot to mention, that i bare shafted some 35/55 the other day and they nocked left with and without the brass inserts and used 175 gr. points both times."

This is another good example that the "kick" bare shaft method doesn't work. Use the planing method and see how that works for you...O.L.

http://www.bowmaker.net/tuning.htm

Fountain: you might consider reading Instinctive Shooting II by G.Fred Asbell. If you feel like you need some form resolution, that is a great place to start. You don't need to shoot instincitvely if you prefer not to (as the title implies), but the form aspects in holding a bow properly depending on grip styles, drawing, release, etc are all covered in detail. Once you learn more about the bow you have chosen, you can often begin to fix the errors and move to a higher level of functioning. This book is a very good primer for the begining archer, as well as those who have shot for some time. Worth the $20 or so.

Try getting to full draw, some people panic on game an never they do it(its  called a dirty word im not saying)