don't know that much about carbons but it seems to me the carbon may be prone to splitting if the piece inside it is taperd and taking the impact.  Forces would be transfered inside out instead of linear unless the insert had a shoulder on it for the carbon to butt up against?

stump man, I agree.  The wood inside the carbon is parallel sided and there's a small shoulder, too.  

snakewood 3, I really appreciate your offer.  PM on the way!

Pends which carbons you use. Some trad heavies or Hammer heads would have lots of diameter.

Here's a quick and dirty foreshaft made from an 11/32 POC shaft.  I removed a touch too much wood and put one wrap of tape around the stem.  The overall length is 3 1/8".  The narrowed section is 1 1/2" long.

For reference, the point is 3 5/16" long and weighs 275 grains.  More to come...    

Woody , I did exactly what you are talking about , just to do it .
I used a hardwood dowel and shaped it like I would for a cane shaft , the important part I found was as Stumpy said , the shaft would split on hard impact . I ended up wrapping with thread and epoxy to add an outer ring to support the shaft , worked great.

Go Woody go....
This look familliar????
     

Bert, I kinda remember that one.        That's a great picture of it in front of those red alders.

Ted, good advice.  I'll take it.  GGG




Total weight of foreshaft, point, and hafting material is about 305 grains.  Arrow weighs about 285 grains.  Foreshaft and arrow combined weigh just under 600 grains.  (I keep saying "about" because my scale is one of the simple pocket jobbers.)

One of these days I'll figure out how to determine FOC.  Right now all I can do is say it's pretty heavy up front.  GGG



It looks fairly smooth, but will try make the lines a bit smoother for hunting points.



When the 11/32 POC foreshaft is inserted in the Carbon Express, they line up pretty well.  I was expecting a large step-down from wood to carbon, but with a wrap of dental floss to reinforce the carbon, the difference in diameter appears minimal.  Consequently, I didn't taper the foreshaft at all.

So far, so good!  Tomorrow I'll shoot this pointy-headed Frankenstein.    

Looks great Woody!  I did basically the same thing with Douglas Fir as a prototype and it turned out good. After inserting the foreshaft in the carbon I put it on a spinner and it seems to be very true to center.  I have no doubt this is going to work!

My drill press was set up for a different job I am working on and I didn't want to mess with that today, so I just chucked my wood insert into a cordless drill and clamped it into a vise.  Worked fine.

I had one of your points on a wood arrow that was too short for me, and I cut it off and cleaned it up.  I plan to make one with some type of hardwood and will haft that point to it.

Looks good Woody    Let us know how it works out.

Wish I would have taken the time to learn wood, or metal working. Some of the things y'all do are just amazing. The things I am good at have no use in the civilized world.

I hope Ted was making fun of points you sent him and not mine  

Nice job Woody. That looks like a perfect blending of new and old tech, Yin & Yang. Now to just find a wild hog to fling it at...

I like it.  First shot, 18 yards, Centaur 54# @28".  Carbon Express 250, 28" to base of point.  Next four or five shots were very similar.  To my eyes, the arrow seemed to fly quite well.  

Woody, I am amazed at how straight your knapped head is!  Wow!

Very Cool.................

Very cool sir.  One of these days I'm going to have to talk you out of a pair of heads!  My own attempts have left me dejected and bleeding.

As we advance "The Stone Age" one step closer to the Future