Hello.is there a good glue/epoxy that can be bought at the local hardware or home depot etc.I want something to install points and broadheads on wood arrows.i've lost almost all my broadheads in my target .now i have to tear it apart and find them.Thanks

i use cheap devcon 5 minute epoxy from the hardware store.  just de grease the points so the  glue sticks good.

I use regular Ferruletite hot melt without any issues.  It is imperative that the insides of the ferrules be clean; this is true no matter what glue you use.  If I was going to use an epoxy, it would be JB Weld.

I use ferrultie on woods with no issues as well.
I have heard that Gorilla glue werks too. wet the shaft if using Gorilla glue.

What are you using for a target.  Broadheads spin a little as they enter a target.  Almost impossible to pull them out of any target except sand or dirt.

I've got one of those block targets.Two sides for broadheads and two for  fieldpoints as marked on the target.Thanks for the help guys.i guess i'll fish them all out and clean with acetone before  regluing.That was my mistake I guess.

if ya uese acetone, wipe the surface with a dry cloth AFTER the acetone.  the acetone removes the grease, but it leaves a slight residue of its own.

OK Thanks .What woorks better?

i dont know, im not familiar with that.  lighter fluid would work, denatured alcohal would work. i know fluid leaves no residue, not sure about the alcohol.

I have had great success with PC-7 Epoxy available at Ace Hardware.  It comes in 2 small cans and has a real thick consistency, which allows you to get your points on absolutely straight.  PC-7 doesn't get brittle like other epoxies.  With 5-minute and 2-ton epoxies I've had trouble with points popping off on impact. The only downside is that it takes about 12 hours to fully set up.  To remove the point, merely heat up the point to break the bond.  I wouldn't use anything else.

PC-7 and golf club makers epoxy work well for me with carbons, I let it cure 24 hours although 12 should work, the longer before it is moved the better. Clean non- contaminated surfaces are crucial to a good bond. I wash shaft and broadhead with dawn dish detergent rough up the carbon inside the shaft, then clean with 90% isopropyl alcohol available at the drugstore, don't use 70%. Acetone is good for removing water. I only use Ferr-L-Tite now for bareshafting as it is easy to reverse while shortening the shaft.