bareshafting some 4560's and some 6075's out of a 50lb bear montana that I draw to 29"

Shooting 10yards into a foam target. Keeping the bow vertical.  The arrow is hitting where I aim but I am getting a definate nock left or right depending on the shaft/ point weight/ length.

32" with 225 up front 6075's hit with nock right
95% of the time.  (means they are too stiff?)

32" 4560's with 225 up front hit nock way left.(to weak?)

31" 4560's with 225 up front hit slight nock left. ( perfect? will stiffen a tad when fletched) Question- How come when I shoot this same arrow with the bow canted it contacts the riser/shelf?

I think the 45/60's are still too stiff for your setup, and they are slapping the riser on the way out.  

I don't care about nock left or right just point of impact.....

Mike

Point of impact is on in all cases for some reason...granted it is only ten yards. I'll have to wait for better weather before I can shoot farther.

Riser contact is only if I cant the bow for some reason?  

I have heard some say to use the nock left or right as an indication others say its no good. I'm confused as it seemed to be working...6075's are always nock right, 4560's were always nock left, then started to straighten out as I trimmed them.

If you are outside, wind can affect how the nock lands.  Better not to go with that right now - at least until to get into a windless situation.  Or, it may be a case where the arrow doesn't have time to get out of the tail-wobble before it hits.

You also have to move much further back to really see the effects of how the arrow is flying...20 yards is pretty good.

Sounds like the 45-60s will tune pretty good.

I'm betting they are all too stiff.

Do I ignore the nock left and right?

Was going by what I saw on sipsey river site.

Full lenght(32") 4560, 225gr up front that is fletched with vanes, put a little nail polish on the cock feather, shot it cock feather in and the strike plate was clean...arrow went within 1" of were I aim at 10yrds.

I am waiting on some heavier points and feathers so I can't do much till I get them.
In the end I'd like to shoot 310 up front(160grizz,100gr adapter, 50gr insert) I thought for sure the 4560's would work.

you cant tell much from 10yards. Back up to about 20 or 25 if you have room. Make sure your shooting area is clear on the right and left of your target.
SL

ditto

"Point of impact is on in all cases for some reason...granted it is only ten yards."

Yep too close. Back till you can tell cause there is a difference.

"Do I ignore the nock left and right?

Was going by what I saw on sipsey river site."

Yep, ignore the shaft angle, the best shooters in the world with perfectly tuned equipment can not shoot a shaft "straight" and if they adjust things till they can most of the time, they are over spined....O.L.

OK thanks everyone, I will back it up to 15-20 yards and go by point of impact.

kevgsp, "15-20 yards and go by point of impact."

It's where bare shafts or wide broadheads "group" in relation to identical fletched field or target points that tells you what is wrong. Shooting either by themselves won't tell you much cause your hair covered computer will quickly compensate. "Groups" don't have to be good, just look at averages.....O.L.

OL wrote: "hair covered computer"

That had me scratching!!  

Question is???? Where were you scratching?   ....O.L.