I'm having difficulty getting good point tapers with this tool. The nock tapers are working really really well but the point tapers end up always with too shallow a taper and the points cannot go all the way on.

Anyone got any hints?

Tom.

I got frustrated with mine so I switched over to their pencil type sharpeners.
I find them very easy to use,less messy, curly cues instead of dust no set up.

Take a measurement of the angle of approach for the point taper slot. You can do this by simply putting a KNOWN good arrow in the slot, and against the sanding disk.  

If it is not right, shift the block position (with respect to the sanding disk face) till it is right.  Not perfect, but it will make it work.

ChuckC

Tom:
I assume you are using a stop block also. This prevents the shaft from going too deep, You will probably need to change its position to allow the shaft to go in deeper. To simplify things make two marks on your sander table for the stop block one for each taper.
Bob

Even with the pencilsharpener type,I cut 1/8" off the point cause they won't go clear in!

My sanding platform is too narrow to use a stop block so I have to use a clamp.

I'll try those methods and report back.
The pencil sharpener wasn't good for my nock ends so that's why I made the switch.

I made one of these things years ago. What I do is keep a nock and point on hand to adjust as need be. I also have a short piece of cedar shafting that is just perfectly tapered and I set that in the jig before I start to grind em make adjustments off of it instead of messing up new woods. I also just clamp mine to the sanding deck with some spring clamps. Jason

As noted above, for the ones you have already tapered, just trim 1/8th inch or so off the tip.They'll fit perfectly.

For the rest, rig up a stop that is fastened to the taper block and over hangs the end--something you can adjust. Your chance to be creative!

Jim

Thanks guys. I've been using some of the above methods but I'll try to cut the tip 1/8 inch.

I've now got a guide block clamped to the bench and I'll mark it for reference each time.

You could have bought an Ashby Head that worked instead of a block wood that didn't for that price.  

QuoteOriginally posted by joebuck:
You could have bought an Ashby Head that worked instead of a block wood that didn't for that price.    

Well not really, the wood is a 1/3 of the price of ONE Ashby head.    

Shipping to Australia is Free? nice perk!..Just eyeball it on your belt sander.You'll figure it out

No but nor is it free to ship the broadheads.
Yeah I've figured it out and I just can't take off too much material.
if I lose concentration I screw the taper. That doesn't sound pleasant.

Tom:
Believe me I taper thousands of shafts with that type of taper devise. YOU NEED A STOP OF SOME KIND. Too regulate the depth the shaft goes in. Then you just continue to sand until the wheel no longer cuts wood, every shaft taper will be the same and you can make any length taper you need.
Bob

Bob, I would like to see what your set-up looks like. Got a picture? Thanks Flint

QuoteOriginally posted by flint kemper:
Bob, I would like to see what your set-up looks like. Got a picture? Thanks Flint

+10    

ttt