I'm going to be shooting 150 grain razorcaps this year and after tuning/shooting them- I'm having a cranky hard time getting them shaving sharp again.
I've ran them over 220 grit paper, 400 grit paper, 100 strokes with my lansky fine stone, and still not satisfied yet.  Thinking I may have to buy a new flat diamond stone and keep stroking. Anyone else find them a bit harder blade to sharpen than say a snuffer??

I sharpen then the same way I do the woodsmans.  Large flat file for he initial part and finish up on a light stone.  I use very light pressure.  They do seem to be made of harder steel but I can usually get them to shave hair.

For me they are the easiest bh to get shaving sharp. On the ones that make me work I  have found that using a coarse diamond stone, DMT, to get the edge down to honing with the finer grits is very effective. Finish up with a ceramic hone using VERY LIGHT strokes.

QuoteOriginally posted by Bill Carlsen:
For me they are the easiest bh to get shaving sharp. On the ones that make me work I  have found that using a coarse diamond stone, DMT, to get the edge down to honing with the finer grits is very effective. Finish up with a ceramic hone using VERY LIGHT strokes.

Thats what I do for my RC's and they are easy to get shaving sharp!

DMT flat stone is definitely the way to go...easy

Thanks guys, guess I'm going to have to invest in a new stone....

I use a butchers steel, and find them easy to sharpen.

I agree with buckracks7. Just use a real butchers steel (not a diamond one ). Back to front with light pressure and they will shave you with no effort.

Help me out with the butchers steel- are you talking about a steel rod or block type?

Steel Rod

I use a three sided Smith's arkansas stone, then when I'm done with the fine side, I switch to a ceramic rod - a few light strokes, and razor sharp razorcap!

Went back at one last night.  75 strokes with my course lansky, 75 with medium, 75 on my steel rod, and 75 with lansky fine stone, still not shaving..... it looks like my edge is still a touch ragged.  I ran my sharpie down the edge, and my stones are removing the color- but using a magnifying glass- my edge is not smooth.  Thinking I may have to run the course stone for a bit longer.  Its almost like the factory "wedged" the edge of the blades- and by running them flat- I'm not actually working the true edge.  I'm pretty proficient at sharpening anything else til it shaves, but these are giving me fits..... did it take anyone else awhile to work the blade down til the true edge work begins?
Thanks guys.

You shouldnt need nearly so many strokes unless youve been shooting them into a sandbox. It took me a while to figure them out. The real key as someone said earlier is very very light strokes. Shoot... half the time I just use about between 4 to 10 strokes with a file (works best with a newer file and a little bit of honing oil) and it will shave. Sometimes I will hone or strop, most of the time not. the last few strokes are literally as light as a feather. best of luck.

Yikes - 75 STROKES - slow down a little. There does seem to be some kind of "touch" to 3 blades - I sharpen Razorcaps, woodsmans and BIG snuffers differently than most - and it probably wouldn't help you to do it the way I do. Phil Muller & Gene Wensel sharpen these heads quickly and easily with razor sharp results EVERY time. Gene finishes with a croc stik - Phil travels with a Steel. Stones mentioned should work - file mentioned should work - for working before finishing. 1 side (2 blades) at a time. My razorcaps stayed sharp so well I rarely had to sharpen them - really  handy hunting around saltwater. Try a "lighter" touch - hope that works - if it doesn't - email me and I can go through my method - but mine ruins the heads.
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It is really important to get the edge "up" with the coarse stone or file before you move on to any finer grit. If you don't have it rough sharp it won't be able to be honed to razor sharp. Once you get a burr edge with the coarse stone or file, then I get 30 strokes (10 per blade, alternating two blades at a time) on a DMT blue stone, repeat on a DMT red stone then finish with a very light touch on a ceramic rod. After each stone I make sure the edge if being worked properly.

I use a DMT stone. As Bill does. Instead of ceramic rod, I have a super fine DMT flat stone that is one inch by four inches and carry it with me everywhere. I have no trouble sharpening to where I can take hair off my arms.  I love these heads with my carbon arrows. I'm using the 200 grain version. My bear only went 30 yards that I shot two weeks ago. Broke a rib going in and came out off the opposite front leg. Still razor sharp.  Emphasis on light strokes to finish.  Good luck.