Hoping you all can give me ideas on setting up the best Ashby Arrow.  I want to hit all His recommendations for this time and give her a shot.

Bow specs-  57#@29" (my draw) R/d Bamboo backed Hickory longbow, off the shelf-over the hedge, nothing but lung...).  

Just finished reading all the updates, thanks for posting them!  The lighter poundage (54#) bow, extreme FOC, single bevel, etc... Bow versus 82# "normal" arrows, fascinating to say the least....anyway.  All that being said.  I am going with Grizzly sticks again, after a three year hiatus (can't remember why I changed, they did very well on elk).  They are presently uncut and waiting to be bare-shafted.


So, I will have a tapered shaft at the length the recipe requires
Brass inserts
Steel adapters (100gr)
Grizzly broadhead (125-190, depending on flight).

From this setup I think I have all the advantages I can get out of a carbon arrow setup.  Single Bevel, High MA, tapered shaft, Components with high structural integrity, heavy (well over the Bone threshold), Extreme FOC-I think (? not sure I hit that).  

I will be missing two points though, Internal Footing and Teflon coated head.  Is there a commercially made I.F. for the grizzly shaft?  or one made at all?  If not, is this requirement one I can fulfill?

Have I missed something else along the way here?  Something he points out that I missed?  Thanks for the help on this Journey!

 

Oh...Grizzly Stik Alaskan

Can't help you with footings for Grizzly Stiks but there was a real interesting thread on after market coatings on broadheads a while back that would be a good read.

I looked but I wasn't able to find it right off, but I'm pretty sure Doc Ashby and Littlefeather were involved in it if you do a search.

Here it is:

Teflon Paint

with similar bow weights..

I got Grizzly sticks Alaskans flying like darts as follows..  

cut 28.25 inches BOP to nock slot.  Brass insert.  Steel adapter 100 grains.  No mercy broadhead 135 grains.  4 fletch with 3" feathers, cut OL/Ashby style (took the front 3" from 5.5" existing fletch)  slight helical.

With fletch they fly like darts as far as I can reasonably shoot them.  even out to 60-70 yards.

With bare shaft, I have to drop down to no more than 175 grains (total point weight) at that shaft length to get them perfect.  I think if you can cut even anothe 1/2" off the shaft length you can add 30-40 grains more front weight and still keep them flying great.
Chuck

No one knows about the Internal footings?  

THanks chuck and slow bow.  I will look up the teflon paint thing.  hopefully they have it in pink...

never heard of ashby/ol fleth.  where can I read about that?
Chuck, I can't cut them below 29.5, due to my draw length.  I don't want to cut them at all.  Right now @ 32.5, with brass insert and 235 gr Judo, they seem to fly well, I'm hittin plastic coke bottles at 30 nearly every time, and they are fun to watch (I know I shouldn't do it, but who can resist).  Though, I haven't bare shafteed yet, I'm waiting for all the different sizes of points to come in the mail.  I've lost a hundred of those somewhere over the last year.

Dont think IFs are available as of yet?? I could be wrong.

J

Anyone have any ideas on how one could be added to a grizz stik with brass inserts?  Not sure I understand entirely what it would require to make one.  I seem to remember that it shouldn't be glued in static to the inner walls.

Elk, with my set up, the longer the shaft, the less weight it will tolerate at the end.  Remember, I am bare shafting and or using minumal feathers ala Ashby.   With 30+" shafts I had to go down to 125 gr tips to get them to fly well bare shafted. You asked about making Ashby style arrows so you have to deal with that.

Maybe go to the Safari grade Grizzly sticks instead ?

 That said, stick a 3 /  5.5" high back shield feather set on it and you can probably use any head you want on it.
ChuckC

too late for the safaris, already have a dozen of these fletched up.  We'll see what happens.  Thanks again.  

Anybody wanna swap a dozen alaskans for a dozen safaris?  ;-)

the last time i heard from dr. ashby the internal footing were still in development so he wouldn't say a whole lot.

what he did say in the thread was that the I.F. had to be glued to the insert and just a little ways down the I.F. the back part of the I.F. shouldn't be  glued to the shaft.

the problem with the I.F. is i don't think you can make a very strong I.F. that is under a 100 grain. you create a weak spot saving the 100 grains swapping back to aluminum inserts. if you add 100 grain insert 100 grain IF 125 grain broadhead adapter you are at 425 without the broadhead.

i think the I.F. were created for extremely heavy arrows +800 grain. i wouldn't shoot an 800 grain arrow out of a 57 lb. bow.

what i have learned shooting various arrows with a  57 lb. bow @ 29 in. is it is hard to find an arrow stiff enough to shoot +300 grain up front and not weigh 10,11,12 gpi. basically i haven't found an arrow stiff enough that didn't end up weighing 650 grain or more. and i want to keep a decent trajectory.

i am looking at now is  putting another carbon arrow inside my carbons for double walled carbon. that way i can shoot light gpi arrows and still load the front with whatever i want. " the footing  makes the arrows alot stiffer".

if you want to know pm me in a couple weeks and i will let you know how it works out.

Thanks BM.  Does anyone know how much GPI an alaskan Shaft is?  I'm having trouble finding it.

There is no GPI on the Alaskans because they are a continuous taper.  I shoot them cut at 29" with brass inserts and 260-285 up front.  They're a bit over 750 grain and I have no problems shooting them from my 57# Mohawk.

thanks.  seems there is an avg. on a full length shaft...?

is the 260 up front including inserts?  thanks again.   I need a gr scale!