Well we finally jumped to carbon arrows when we purchased 3 dozen shafts at the show this weekend.

We got the Vapor Carbonwood 3000 shafts and want to tune them to extreme FOC.  I like my arrows to be 29" BOP if possible but can a little longer if necessary.

We will be using WW 125 BH on the combo and plan to bareshaft tune the arrows.

We will be shooting them from 52# longbows and curves.

OK, where do we start with inserts and adapters?  Got to get an order in today.

Mike

I use 100gr. inserts and then use the steel braodhead adaptors if you want more weight. But tuning them will be different between the longbows and the recurves of course. If you could go heavier and still have the length of arrow you desire you would have to go with a heavier tip.

When I tune carbons the length I end up with I don't worry about.Trying to end up with a 29" arrow can be hit or miss because you don't have as many spine choices to start with.A Carbonwood 3000 has a static spine of .400 which is very close to a 55/75 GT.With a 125 gr. point or broadhead I would start with a 100 gr. brass insert at full length and tune from there untill you find your correct dynamic spine.Are the WW 125 gr. glue-on's,you may have to try some steel adapters for extra FOC.I shoot Carbonwood 3000 at 30&1/8" with 100 gr.insert and 125 gr. point and the total weight is around 530 grs.

Yep the WW are glue on so I can go with the steel adapters to get some more weight adjustment.

So you think the 100gr insert is the right way to start?  My understanding is that once you put them in . . well they are in.

Mike

wingnut,you don't half to glue the inserts in to try them out.What I do is to push them in the shaft with alittle saran plastic food wrap.The plastic wrap holds the insert in snug enough for bareshaft tuning.I shoot through a two inch foam target into a bag target.The foam target hold the position of the arrow and the bag target doesn't grab tight enough to pull the point and insert out.If you shoot into a layered or solid foam target your insert & point may pull out.I do all my tuning without having to glue in the inserts with this method.After I'm satisfied with my bareshaft tuning I'll then prep and glue in my inserts.I etch the inside of the shaft with a bore brush and clean with some alocohol,then I'll scratch the insert with some sandpaper and glue it in.I use Bohning Powerbond or a AAE 24 hr. two part epoxy for glueing inserts.

For what it's worth, I shoot the 3000's out of my 53#@27" recurve with the arrows cut to 29 1/2", 100 grain brass inserts and 125 grain points. They bareshafted great.

Adeeden,

What adapter do you use?  

I have a 4' x 4' layered foam target that we will use for tuning.  So I guess I'm stuck with gluing them in first and trimming from the nock end.

Mike

Where can I buy some Carbonwood 3000 shafts? I've been looking without any luck. I've been using them with my Super Shrew (60# @ 28")and like them a lot.
Thanks, Bob

Bob...Look in the sponsor's classified.  Sispey River has the 3000 shafts listed in an ad there.

Put them on with the Ferr-L-Tite stick glue Mike. Then all you have to do is heat them up to remove them when you want it to be more permanent.

Someone just had them on sale on the sponsor's classifieds on Tuesday.

Mike

Sipsey has them for $39.95 which is a good deal!

I use a 125 grain steel adaptor with my WW, it gives me 250 grains.  I get 250 grain screw-in points from 3Rivers.  This way the field points and the broadheads match in weight.

I got a complete passthrough on a deer with them this fall.

I got a arrow setup with aluminum screw-in inserts (on a GT 5575) and brass (100 gr) screw-in inserts.  The brass are on stiffer arrows (GT 7595).  My bow is a 48#@28" Kota hybrid longbow and I draw 28.5".

They work well, good luck.
Jason

yep you cant beat(sipsey river john) and his prices good guy to work with

Mike, I use the 100 grain brass insert from 3 rivers and screw in broadheads (125 grain snuffers). I used hot melt for my initial testing and shortened the shaft from the nock end 1/4" at a time. Cutting from the nock end was the easiest way when bare shafting! once I got them bareshafted I put the inserts in for good with JB weld. I have been shooting the same ones for about 3 years now. only broke 3 so far!