Daly Profin. Do I wipe it on or use a dip tube?

It is great stuff to use in a dip tube! It has a good consistancy and will run off leaving an even coating. I use 3-4 coats with sanding lightly between dried coats with 0000 steelwool.

do you use the gaskets or not? thanks for the help

No gasket! It sheets off real nicely. It is thinner than say a urethane.  So a gasket is not necessary. With the gasket it will take longer to get a good layered coating on too. No, I just dip and hang. 4-8hrs later you're ready for another coat.

Bear Heart:
The perfered method is like Snag said, dipping however you can also apply it with a small foam brush. Just hold the shaft over the can and gob in on, rotating the shaft until covered. then let the excess run back into the can. Its a great finish I'm sure you will like it.
Bob

Bob, I believe you were the one that turned me on to it! Thanks. With Bob's cresting paints and Profin I am a happy crestor! lol

I'll give it a go once I get my rack built.

Bear Heart, what is Daly Profin and where do you get it?

Jon:
Pro-fin is a Tung oil based product that dries extremely hard, little or no target burn. I sell it as its only distributed into four northwestern states. But you can get it through me. Its a great moisture barrier for any wood arrow.
Bob
whisperarro@msn.com

I'm hunting this week with my first batch of profin arrows and I like this stuff.I dipped mine in a tube without gasket,let it drain a minute and hungem up nice even coats.I also purchsed mine from Bob recently.good stuff!ask Bob about those hex shafts!

The paint stores out here in Washington have it in pint or quarts.  Is Glossy or Satin preferred?

For targets I like the glossy for easy removal. Then if you want to hunt with some just knock the shine off with some steelwool.

Bear Heart:
Use the glossy, satin finishes are not as hard as glossy's.
Bob

I got mine from brother Bob and it's harder than woodpecker lips.  Mine went on with a foam brush , steel wooled and redux.  Nice, very nice coverage!

I really like profin but I guess I'll have to respectfully disagree to target burn, or lack there of.  Mine has burned into foam 3d targets and also even my block target I use for bh's.

Good stuff, slow to dry, and it does burn a little, atleast for me....but there is nothing better short of using the epoxy method.

edit,

now that I finished reading all the posts..duh lol, I'm pretty sure but dont have access to my stuff at this time that I'm using glossy though it may be satin....doubt it though as I like good looking arrows as much as I like nice shiny purdy bows  

Dan:
If your Profin is slow drying, then the tempature is too low and hunidity to high. Build yourself a drying box. A simple one can be made from one 4X8 sheet of foam board. Cut to 4 2X4 panels and Duck tape them into a box. Apiece of plywood on top with hooks to hold your shafts and a 25 watt light bulb will solve the problem. The tempature and humidity will also retard what I call final drying to its hardest. Pro-fin in 65 degrees and up temp's will take two weeks to reach its dryest point, not that you have to wait that long to use them. They will target burn some until they reach that final cure.
Bob

I've found that the "oil"-based dipping finishes I've tried take considerable time to reach that hard shell stage, even under the best drying conditions (72 degrees in an air-conditioned room). It's never been a problem, as Bob says. The exception was spar urethane from MinWax - I don't think it ever gets completely hard, and it smells!