Black Hawk, I think those are from the late 70's or early 80's.  That's when I used to buy them new anyway.  My archery store had a huge supply, loose in a bucket for a buck a piece!  I still have one or two around here.  I made my first bow and arrow kill ever with one of those.

I'm sure Bowdoc will know the story on them.  They might of been the forerunner to the stainless Super Razorhead, the ones I bought had inserts installed but they could be taken out with some heat.

I think that was about 1981-1982-ish somewhere in there.It's Stainless Steel.Came with factory chisiel tip,same as that screw in super razorhead...I just had a couple in my broadhead box as I really never used them much.Some of the guy's really like that SS model...bowdoc

What would you give for a bucket of those today????

That's the only broadhead I use.  And I use the bleeder blade.  Makes an awesome blood trail!

How do you guys use the bleeder blades with woodies?

I have two major problems with these heads. 1st problem I,m about out, 2nd problem is there just not purty, but actually the 2nd problem is a blessing because people get rid of them because of it. There GRRRRRRREAT.

coconutdave....When you point taper the arrow, leave the taper just short of the slot, or just into it.  That will let room to seat the inserts.

Bear made a tool that enabled you to slot a wood arrow for the insert after the head was mounted on a full length tapered shaft. They were the cleaning tool with saw teeth on one side. They are hard to find these days but you can cut one end off of a hack saw blade so it threads through the slot in the broadhead which works just as well.

Problem I always have with using short tapers with broadheads is that the head tends to shift with repeated shooting getting it out of alignment. The longer the taper you can use the less chance of the head getting out of true.

Thanks guys.  I've tried the short taper, but I was concerned about it not being strong enough. The hacksaw trick might be worth a try.